Good hydraulic flat tappet spring kit for Vortec heads and questions

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Slade88

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Hi everyone I’ve been looking at the comp cams beehive springs, I understand they are duel spring, for running a 450 or lower cam should I remove a spring? I also want springs I can use for not only my peanut cam, but my other cam that I want to put in that has 470 of lift or if I just shouldn’t touch it.

I also need these springs to work with relatively stock Vortec heads

Linked here^^^

Could I use stock 88 TBI self aligning rockers and push rods with my Vortec heads as well? If not maybe y’all would have some good recommendations that you could link to me

Me and my buddies are doing a long awaited Vortec head swap on my 88 c1500 with a little performance cam made for Vortec heads I put in!

Should I run the timing at 0 degrees with the wire unplugged like stock and let the computer desk with it? Or should I set it some other way at a different degree?

What plugs should I run too, I’m thinking AC Delcos

Thank you!!
 

Hipster

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Beehives aren't dual springs. TBI's don't have self-aligning rockers. The 'puter isn't going to like a comp 270 @223-228? duration @.050 without some tuning. It's already been explained in one of your previous threads that the costs of changing over with new Vortecs and the supporting components is going to cost more than bolt on aluminum heads.

The heads say good to .475. I would want to pull a spring and verify just what retainer to guide/seal clearance is there if going .470. Should be fine if you get 1.5 rockers. I would want spring pressure specs so I could verify the specs against what comp recommends for THEIR 270 cam before over thinking it.
 
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Schurkey

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Far as I know, TBI engines DO have self-aligning rocker arms.

My original engine is long gone, but the "service replacement" crate engine for a TBI Caprice has self-aligning rockers. The pushrods are NOT hardened, guideplates (used with regular rocker arms) will chew 'em up.

So either you have self-aligning rockers and stock pushrods, or non-self-aligning rockers, pushrod guideplates, and hardened pushrods.

The existing rocker arms are probably worn-out at the valve tip.

Why would you pay money for a hydraulic flat-tappet cam and lifter set, when you could likely go OEM roller-lifter/cam system?
 

Slade88

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Far as I know, TBI engines DO have self-aligning rocker arms.

My original engine is long gone, but the "service replacement" crate engine for a TBI Caprice has self-aligning rockers. The pushrods are NOT hardened, guideplates (used with regular rocker arms) will chew 'em up.

So either you have self-aligning rockers and stock pushrods, or non-self-aligning rockers, pushrod guideplates, and hardened pushrods.

The existing rocker arms are probably worn-out at the valve tip.

Why would you pay money for a hydraulic flat-tappet cam and lifter set, when you could likely go OEM roller-lifter/cam system?
My block is not drilled for a roller, I have the L05, they are definitely self aligning as there are no guide plates
 

Slade88

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Beehives aren't dual springs. TBI's don't have self-aligning rockers. The 'puter isn't going to like a comp 270 @223-228? duration @.050 without some tuning. It's already been explained in one of your previous threads that the costs of changing over with new Vortecs and the supporting components is going to cost more than bolt on aluminum heads.

The heads say good to .475. I would want to pull a spring and verify just what retainer to guide/seal clearance is there if going .470. Should be fine if you get 1.5 rockers. I would want spring pressure specs so I could verify the specs against what comp recommends for THEIR 270 cam before over thinking it.
I’m switching to carb so no more puter lol, I’ve already got the Vortec heads, aluminums we’re too expensive and I had a Vortec duel plane sitting around so not too costly
 

Erik the Awful

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My block is not drilled for a roller
So drill it. Get a spider plate, mark and drill the holes, tap them, and thread some studs in place. Use some nuts to lock them down and space the spider plate up. You may also have to do some work to fit the dog bones - I've seen videos, but I haven't actually done this yet.

Supposedly LS lifter guides will fit in place of the dog bones and allow over .600" lift. Hopefully I'll find out on my next build.
 

L31MaxExpress

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So drill it. Get a spider plate, mark and drill the holes, tap them, and thread some studs in place. Use some nuts to lock them down and space the spider plate up. You may also have to do some work to fit the dog bones - I've seen videos, but I haven't actually done this yet.

Supposedly LS lifter guides will fit in place of the dog bones and allow over .600" lift. Hopefully I'll find out on my next build.
Those are LS style guides made for a SBC. They bolt down by themselves or can be used with the bolt down retainer.
 

Slade88

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So drill it. Get a spider plate, mark and drill the holes, tap them, and thread some studs in place. Use some nuts to lock them down and space the spider plate up. You may also have to do some work to fit the dog bones - I've seen videos, but I haven't actually done this yet.

Supposedly LS lifter guides will fit in place of the dog bones and allow over .600" lift. Hopefully I'll find out on my next build.
This is my first build my daily and work truck, I’m also on a budget and an amateur, maybe next time haha!
 
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