N9nefingers
OBS Enthusiast
Any ideas as to where this is? I'm on the list and still in need of an ABS bleed.
GMT400 - Community Scan Tool
- Thread starter studigggs
- Start date
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Will an MT2500 even do ABS bleeding on these vehicles?
My MTG2500 with 6.2 software wouldn't bleed the ABS on my '97 K2500.
A Solus Pro with 8.2 software wouldn't bleed the '97, either.
A Solus Pro with 14.2 software CAN bleed the '97. I have been told--but I have not confirmed--that the change took place in the 10.x software bundle.
My MTG2500 with 6.2 software wouldn't bleed the ABS on my '97 K2500.
A Solus Pro with 8.2 software wouldn't bleed the '97, either.
A Solus Pro with 14.2 software CAN bleed the '97. I have been told--but I have not confirmed--that the change took place in the 10.x software bundle.
Piratehunter
I'm Awesome
@studigggs @bugdewde I would appreciate using it. Please add me to the next user list.
Reluctanse
I'm Awesome
A reasonably priced alternative, if you are just trying to bleed abs, is this unit. I just picked up on this week:
actually got it a couple days ago for $119 but still a good deal today-
Yeah its not a great tool but it does what we need, at least on my 2000 tested and confirmed, as well as my '07.
EDIT: you know, I say that, but it seems like decent quality and a decent feature set, for the price its a pretty cheap scan tool, not a bad item to have in the tool kit.
FOXWELL NT630 Plus OBD2 Scanner $130
amazon.com/dp/B07CSMJJK9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsactually got it a couple days ago for $119 but still a good deal today-
Yeah its not a great tool but it does what we need, at least on my 2000 tested and confirmed, as well as my '07.
EDIT: you know, I say that, but it seems like decent quality and a decent feature set, for the price its a pretty cheap scan tool, not a bad item to have in the tool kit.
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Great price for the Foxwell, but I’d be surprised if it bled my 96. I love surprises though!
For those wondering who has it, just scroll back a few pages, it’s easy to figure out who has it currently.
I certainly hope not.
@User_name @Wildblue19 Any status update on this, guys? Did it ever change hands between you two?
Interesting text to go along with the rest of the description. I was surprised--I owned a multimeter decades ago, seemed to be a totally-reliable tool, sold by an American company--maybe even made in America. Yet this tool is clearly described by someone who's native language is obviously NOT English.
I was puzzled.
And then I remembered my multimeter was sold by Fox Valley, not Foxwell. That "Fox Valley" seems to be out-of-business; although there's plenty of other companies with the same name.
I was puzzled.
And then I remembered my multimeter was sold by Fox Valley, not Foxwell. That "Fox Valley" seems to be out-of-business; although there's plenty of other companies with the same name.
Illbedipped
OBS Enthusiast
I'm in need of a scanner like this to diagnose idle problems on my 92 C2500 (5.7, 700R4) I recently acquired. It's only got 105k and original paint. Motor and trans appear unmolested with zero mods. Would this SnapOn scanner help with this problem since it doesn't seem to be throwing and codes?
The issue I am having is when it is fully warmed up, it seems to miss or skip a beat about once every 20-30 seconds. I do not notice it while driving, only while idling in park or in gear (drive or reverse). It has never quit running while doing this, even with the AC running. The truck starts easily and warms up in about 10 minutes. I have replaced both of the coolant temp sensors and the thermostat. The temp gauge stays about 150 when warmed up. I also replaced the cap and rotor with AC Delco parts, the old ones appeared to be in good shape, maybe 4-5 years old. From here, I am considering the fuel pressure regulator or fuel filter just because I think they are original.
I check the OBD blinking light and only count 12, 12 12 so no codes. What other troubleshooting steps can I take before throwing any more parts at her?
The issue I am having is when it is fully warmed up, it seems to miss or skip a beat about once every 20-30 seconds. I do not notice it while driving, only while idling in park or in gear (drive or reverse). It has never quit running while doing this, even with the AC running. The truck starts easily and warms up in about 10 minutes. I have replaced both of the coolant temp sensors and the thermostat. The temp gauge stays about 150 when warmed up. I also replaced the cap and rotor with AC Delco parts, the old ones appeared to be in good shape, maybe 4-5 years old. From here, I am considering the fuel pressure regulator or fuel filter just because I think they are original.
I check the OBD blinking light and only count 12, 12 12 so no codes. What other troubleshooting steps can I take before throwing any more parts at her?
"Codes" can be helpful. The REAL diagnostic power is in the data stream, and the bi-directional control. There is essentially no substitute for a decent scan tool to verify sensors and computer outputs.
What is the fuel pressure? If the pressure is good--towards the high-side of spec--there's no need to dick with the regulator.
How old are the spark plugs and plug wires?
Verify that the magnet on the distributor mainshaft isn't cracked. Really common.
150 degrees F. is WAY TOO COLD. Is the engine REALLY this cool, or is the temp gauge lying?
Vacuum leaks? Intake gaskets, throttle-body base gasket, various vacuum hoses including the PCV system
What is the initial timing? Does the electronic timing advance work?
Cranking compression test of all eight
Drop a 20-oz bottle of Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank, run that tank of fuel before you change the fuel filter.
EGR valve working properly? No leakage into the fuel/air mix at idle?
What is the fuel pressure? If the pressure is good--towards the high-side of spec--there's no need to dick with the regulator.
How old are the spark plugs and plug wires?
Verify that the magnet on the distributor mainshaft isn't cracked. Really common.
150 degrees F. is WAY TOO COLD. Is the engine REALLY this cool, or is the temp gauge lying?
Vacuum leaks? Intake gaskets, throttle-body base gasket, various vacuum hoses including the PCV system
What is the initial timing? Does the electronic timing advance work?
Cranking compression test of all eight
Drop a 20-oz bottle of Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank, run that tank of fuel before you change the fuel filter.
EGR valve working properly? No leakage into the fuel/air mix at idle?
