GMT400 Common Fasteners

[CHEVY_1999_K1500]

Hoping somebody has a list of common hardware used on doors and body:

Screws holding down door panels at arm rests (includin speed nuts to seure)
Screws holding door trim plates at bottom of doors. Including Barn Doors at back of Suburban.
Screws that hold secure rear brake light/backup lenses to body.
Any other misc screws used to mount body hardware.

 

[alpinecrick]

Hoping somebody has a list of common hardware used on doors and body:

Screws holding down door panels at arm rests (includin speed nuts to seure)
Screws holding door trim plates at bottom of doors. Including Barn Doors at back of Suburban.
Screws that hold secure rear brake light/backup lenses to body.
Any other misc screws used to mount body hardware.

In the past I've found screws for the armrest and door plates at ACE Hardware, they were an almost perfect match and fit.

 

[thegawd]

I only replace these with stainless steel and with whatever the hell fits. hahaha I'm a cabinet maker and have a vast screw assortment but sorry I do not know all the sizes.

I'm one of those people who invest in supplies like this so I dont need to go searching. If I think it's one size then incase I'm wrong I buy the size larger and smaller. but I should admit my storage is not optimal I have a couple screw cases for cabinetry and a plethora of jars stacked up on top of another in a cabinet... LMAO.

Iv used a bunch like these but obviously much shorter. this is the only package Iv found that I have, they are #8 stainless and I have 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 1, and these 1 1/2".

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Iv used these for pretty much every screw that holds the door together. they are for a 7/64" hole but I'm missing the top with the rest of the info. they are a black Robbie and 5/8" long and are zinc instead of stainless. I have many just dont know there actual size.

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I got so sick of rusty S H I T T Y oem screws that might not come out that I throw every one of then in the garbage and replace them.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

I only replace these with stainless steel and with whatever the hell fits. hahaha I'm a cabinet maker and have a vast screw assortment but sorry I do not know all the sizes.

I'm one of those people who invest in supplies like this so I dont need to go searching. If I think it's one size then incase I'm wrong I buy the size larger and smaller. but I should admit my storage is not optimal I have a couple screw cases for cabinetry and a plethora of jars stacked up on top of another in a cabinet... LMAO.

Iv used a bunch like these but obviously much shorter. this is the only package Iv found that I have, they are #8 stainless and I have 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 1, and these 1 1/2".

You must be registered for see images attach

Iv used these for pretty much every screw that holds the door together. they are for a 7/64" hole but I'm missing the top with the rest of the info. they are a black Robbie and 5/8" long and are zinc instead of stainless. I have many just dont know there actual size.

You must be registered for see images attach

I got so sick of rusty S H I T T Y oem screws that might not come out that I throw every one of then in the garbage and replace them.

Those square head screws look like what's in my trailer. RVs use these a lot. I have also seen them on trim parts on my 53 GMC pickup.( Don't know if they were factory spec or just something one of many prior owners did though.) I agree stainless steel is the way to go if you can. Holds up much better in damp climate.

 

[CHEVY_1999_K1500]

What I was able to find at Lowe's in case it helps somebody else.

I don't think they are an exact match but the fact your putting them through holes which are NOT threaded (or Speed Clips on the doors) - they seem to work fine.

Door Card Handle Screws. (Two On Each Door)
Hillman Stainless #10 - 1 1/2"
Bar Code 37504 01198

Door Sill and Rear Barn Door Sill
Hillman Stainless #8 - 1 1/4"
Bar Code 37504 026608

Rear Barn Door Window Trim (Interior)
Hillman Weatherman Stainless #8 - 5/8"
Bar Code 37504 01132

Does anybody have some tips or methods for Drilling out the heads on the Door Sills. Mine are so rusted in - there is no hope of getting them out. Convention Harbor Freight Screw Head Extractors don't bite. Standard Drills want to spin off and damage the plastic.

The comments about the OEM Steel Screws are spot on. Seven years in Iowa and they are rusted solid in place.

These are amazing trucks in many ways, especially compared to what is being made today. Bought my 1999 in 2002 with 75,000 miles. 19 years and 370,000 miles - still going strong (2nd Engine - a Jasper replaced at 275,000 and 4th 4L60E - a Monster 500HP).

 

[Frank Enstein]

What I was able to find at Lowe's in case it helps somebody else.

I don't think they are an exact match but the fact your putting them through holes which are NOT threaded (or Speed Clips on the doors) - they seem to work fine.

Door Card Handle Screws. (Two On Each Door)
Hillman Stainless #10 - 1 1/2"
Bar Code 37504 01198

Door Sill and Rear Barn Door Sill
Hillman Stainless #8 - 1 1/4"
Bar Code 37504 026608

Rear Barn Door Window Trim (Interior)
Hillman Weatherman Stainless #8 - 5/8"
Bar Code 37504 01132

Does anybody have some tips or methods for Drilling out the heads on the Door Sills. Mine are so rusted in - there is no hope of getting them out. Convention Harbor Freight Screw Head Extractors don't bite. Standard Drills want to spin off and damage the plastic.

The comments about the OEM Steel Screws are spot on. Seven years in Iowa and they are rusted solid in place.

These are amazing trucks in many ways, especially compared to what is being made today. Bought my 1999 in 2002 with 75,000 miles. 19 years and 370,000 miles - still going strong (2nd Engine - a Jasper replaced at 275,000 and 4th 4L60E - a Monster 500HP).

1) Go under the truck with some good vice-grip pliers. Grab the screw from the bottom and try to turn it that way. Beating the top with a screwdriver and a hammer will help loosen them.

2) Beat a #2 Demolition screwdriver from Horrible Fright into the top and grind off the stub sticking out the bottom one at a time.
The heat from grinding will help to break them loose and one turn and it's out.

3) If that doesn't work, a cobalt drill will go through easy.
Start small like 1/8" just don't overheat them.

4) Use a carbide burr in a die grinder to grind out the center of the screw until the head falls off (really hard to do) without melting the sill cover.

5) Honorable Mention,
Cut a slot with a Dremel and an abrasive wheel (or 37 of them if it was me) for a screwdriver.