GMT400 Buggy Build

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Erik the Awful

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What's the size and wall thickness of that tubing? From the front end pic, the open ends look like exhaust tubing, and if so, the cage isn't worth using.

I'll be honest that I have strong opinions on cages. Even if it has decent tubing, that cage isn't what I'd consider good. It's complicated in ways it doesn't need to be.

What's with the "M" on the harness bar? Why is the lateral bar so low? You don't want a mile of harness between your harness bar and the seat. Raise that lateral bar to a couple inches below where the harnesses come back from the seats and run a single diagonal from the halo to the rocker that intersects the harness bar.

The downbars from the halo to the rear frame need to be straight. The rear arches that connect to them are complicated and wouldn't be necessary if the downbars were straight. The bars from the center roll bar that intersect the downbars are parallel to the frame and worthless. The single bar connecting the downbars is parallel to the frame, and worthless. It should be diagonal from the halo on one bar to the frame on the other bar.

It looks someone cut some tubing off the halo right in front of the center roll bar, and if that's the case, they did good by leaving the stub there. You can grind the stub down short, but never grind on the tubing to erase evidence of a previous tube. Never compromise on the integrity of your tubing. If you're short where you need to attach the cage to the frame, build a plinth out of 1/4" plate. If you can fish-scale the plinth to the frame, that's even better.
 

DonYukon

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What's the size and
What's the size and wall thickness of that tubing? From the front end pic, the open ends look like exhaust tubing, and if so, the cage isn't worth using.

I'll be honest that I have strong opinions on cages. Even if it has decent tubing, that cage isn't what I'd consider good. It's complicated in ways it doesn't need to be.

What's with the "M" on the harness bar? Why is the lateral bar so low? You don't want a mile of harness between your harness bar and the seat. Raise that lateral bar to a couple inches below where the harnesses come back from the seats and run a single diagonal from the halo to the rocker that intersects the harness bar.

The downbars from the halo to the rear frame need to be straight. The rear arches that connect to them are complicated and wouldn't be necessary if the downbars were straight. The bars from the center roll bar that intersect the downbars are parallel to the frame and worthless. The single bar connecting the downbars is parallel to the frame, and worthless. It should be diagonal from the halo on one bar to the frame on the other bar.

It looks someone cut some tubing off the halo right in front of the center roll bar, and if that's the case, they did good by leaving the stub there. You can grind the stub down short, but never grind on the tubing to erase evidence of a previous tube. Never compromise on the integrity of your tubing. If you're short where you need to attach the cage to the frame, build a plinth out of 1/4" plate. If you can fish-scale the plinth to the frame, that's even better.


I will say its not the best and there is 2 changes Id make but Ive been shocked to see what holds up with cages. For a standard flop or typical roll (with the 2 changes Id make) minding its also an appropriate DOM type tubing it would withstand typical weekend warrior crawling. Now if it was a competition rig Id agree some of the angles and meets are a bit wonky.
 

Vorhizzle

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This was just a DoM exo cage off a toyota. itll work. I got my old man helping me we plan on modifying it. He builds super stock late models for a living.

As it is right now it needs some modification and the front end is probably getting cut off for the most part.
 
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