Gear Ratio decision

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sfisher27

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hey all, new to the forum so thanks in advanced for your help. I apologize in advanced if you are on the facebook page and this is a repeat.

anyway, i have a 1998 chevy k1500, lifted with 3" body and 6" suspension. running 35" tires. has a great 5.7 vortec engine and a fresh rebuilt 4L60E trans from jasper. and the 10 bolt rear, running stock 3.42 gears. problem is the trucks pretty sluggish since the new tires and lift. Looking for the best way to regain some low end power and still be able to cruise nicely on the interstate without struggling to keep up with raffic. right now the truck cruises okay at 55-60 at about 1500 rpms and 70 at about 2k, which another enthusiast tells me is impossible with that trans and tire combo. so im not sure if the previous owner changed the speedo to match his 33's but im pretty sure he didnt regear it. either way every gear ratio calculator i can find is telling me to go with 4.56 gears. so what i want to know is from guys that have a similar/same setup and your personal opinion of how your truck is now. what i want to be able to do is drive this truck daily either empty or pulling trailers probably up to about 7000lbs. as well as traveling to my cabin about 3 hours away without hating the drive because i cant keep up with traffic and my gas mileage is in the single digits. all the while i want to be able to kick in 4hi or low and play in the dirt the mud and anything else i find. i live in pa so snow is plentiful too. oh and i love my power and speed as much as the next guy. so lets hear your thoughts and opinions on your setups and what the best gears will be for a happy medium to do everything. heres a pic of the old girl

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Lscobra

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Ive got 3.42 gears in my suburban and when i put the 285’s on it got sluggish like youre talking about. I figure if you had a 4.10 it would feel like stock with 35’s and a 4.56 gear would probly put you right where you want to be fuel mileage and towing wise. Thats what i would go with if i was running 35’s.
 

b454rat

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4.56s. You also added more weight with lift n tires, and rotating mass of the tires. 4.10s would put it to “stock”, but as mentioned added more weight. I have a set of 4.56s axles if ur interested, if ur above Harrisburg.
 

slowburb

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4.56 and 35's is a little hotter than 4.10's and factory tire size. It was perfect for my big green lifted 4x4 5500# suburban, that was daily driver duty, hunting duty, boat pulling duty, etc.


ETA...welcome to the site by the way. Nice rig.
 

sfisher27

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4.56 and 35's is a little hotter than 4.10's and factory tire size. It was perfect for my big green lifted 4x4 5500# suburban, that was daily driver duty, hunting duty, boat pulling duty, etc.


ETA...welcome to the site by the way. Nice rig.



Thanks I try to do everything as proper and clean as possible hence all the questions. I wanna spend the right money once and be happy with her. And that’s what she will be doing daily driver, pulling my toy trailer, hauling fire wood, climbing the untouched road to my cabin up in the mountains and playing in the snow.


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RDF1

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Yea is say Atleast a 4.56 gear.



For comparison,
3.42 with 35s
1600rpm @ 70mph

4.56 with 35s
2150 @ 70mph



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93 GT

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I have a 97' Tahoe with stock height and stock tires that has 3.42 and it's slow as a tortious. But I've got a 93' Yukon 2 door with 3.73 and 35's and it's got a little bit of guts. Then I have a 98' extended cab with 2" lift and 35's and it runs 4.10 and it'll smoke both of the other two (it helps to have vortec over the 93's TBI).

Next thing I will do is get my 2 door to 4.56 and I think it will sit pretty well.
 
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