Gear pattern help

[Michael Moore]

Hey guys just was hoping for some help reading my gear pattern on a new carrier and set of gears that I'm installing. I'm new to differentials so I'm learning as I go. I feel like my gear pattern is off. Not sure if its the pinion depth or the backlash (backlash is .007) but was looking for a second opinion. Any help appreciated. Thanks.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

I don't see any thing that would cause me concern with that pattern.

How To Create & Read Ring Gear Patterns

Gear tooth patterns are harbingers… they can foretell whether your ring and pinion gear set is going to live a long and prosperous life or if it’s doomed to an impending catastrophic failure. Pulling off a proper differential setup comes down to precise adjustments.

www.yukongear.com

 

[kennythewelder]

Your back lash is 0.07 and that good, but what is your opinion depth. that looks like an Eaton truetrak. Did you replace the ring and pinion.

 

[Michael Moore]

Your back lash is 0.07 and that good, but what is your opinion depth. that looks like an Eaton truetrak. Did you replace the ring and pinion.

Yes it's an eaton truetrac. I replaced the ring and pinion. Stock pinion depth was 2.538. The front of the new pinion was stamped 2.512. With the shims I had I came up with a pinion depth of 2.517.

 

[kennythewelder]

Yeah, that's perfect. End play @ 0.07,,,, If I remember rite, it's up 0.015,,, so any where from 0.005 up to 0.015 is in spec, but, double check to be sure. When I did mine in Feburary, I was @ .005 on pinion depth of spec, and my back lash was also .005. Are you using a crush seeve? I went with a crush sleeve eliminator kit. So glad I did. Once your set, that's it. I just changed my yoke seal. It was leaking for some reason. The eliminator kit made it so easy. Once the depth is set, that's it. If your specs are that close, your pattern doesn't look bad, IMO put it together and you will know for sure. Mine is dead quite. It makes no noise what's so ever. I'm running 275/60/15 tires and I went with 373s. Love that combo, and really love the true truetrac.

 

[Michael Moore]

Yeah, that's perfect. End play @ 0.07,,,, If I remember rite, it's up 0.015,,, so any where from 0.005 up to 0.015 is in spec, but, double check to be sure. When I did mine in Feburary, I was @ .005 on pinion depth of spec, and my back lash was also .005. Are you using a crush seeve? I went with a crush sleeve eliminator kit. So glad I did. Once your set, that's it. I just changed my yoke seal. It was leaking for some reason. The eliminator kit made it so easy. Once the depth is set, that's it. If your specs are that close, your pattern doesn't look bad, IMO put it together and you will know for sure. Mine is dead quite. It makes no noise what's so ever. I'm running 275/60/15 tires and I went with 373s. Love that combo, and really love the true truetrac.

I'm still using the crush sleeve. I'm not educated enough to try the spacer yet. As I said I'm learning as I go since this is my first differential. I will might try the spacer route on my 62 tbird rear end I have to do. I kinda decided the same thing and to just drive it and see if it makes noise. Thank you for the input. Maybe I was just overthinking my pattern (I tend to do that). Was mainly concerned about the drive side being on the lower side and if it was too deep into the teeth or not. Kept looking at pattern examples until I was cross eyed haha.

 

[kennythewelder]

When I did mine in February, it was the first time for me. I do work in a machine shop, but we are a job shop, not an automotive shop. I did get the lead machinist to help me. Look familiar ? The crush sleeve eliminator uses a spacer and some shims to get the pinion depth rite and to set the pinion bearing preload. I am so very happy with my diff since I rebuilt it. Hope your goes as well.

 

[Michael Moore]

When I did mine in February, it was the first time for me. I do work in a machine shop, but we are a job shop, not an automotive shop. I did get the lead machinist to help me. Look familiar ? The crush sleeve eliminator uses a spacer and some shims to get the pinion depth rite and to set the pinion bearing preload. I am so very happy with my diff since I rebuilt it. Hope your goes as well.

I hope it goes well too haha. Yours looks good. I work in a machine shop as well as a machinist. Our shop makes camshafts. I will most likely give the eliminator a try the next time.

 

[Erik the Awful]

It may be a little late, but the old school trick is to take a strip of notebook paper and run it through the gears. It should come out uncut. Then fold it in half and run it through again. It should have a pattern of tooth marks. Every other one should be cut. If none are cut - too loose. If all are cut - too tight. Note that I've never actually tried this.

 

[kennythewelder]

It may be a little late, but the old school trick is to take a strip of notebook paper and run it through the gears. It should come out uncut. Then fold it in half and run it through again. It should have a pattern of tooth marks. Every other one should be cut. If none are cut - too loose. If all are cut - too tight. Note that I've never actually tried this.

I haven't heard of that, but, it may be true, IDK. IMO, if it's in spec, the pattern looks rite, and the drag torque is in spec, it should be good. It does take about 500 miles to settle in and ware into place. You will have shavings at the 500 mile mark. The magnet on my cover had good bit. The oil looked good when I changed it at 500 miles. Then at about 1200 miles I could see a drip hanging off the carrier at the cover, so I pulled it, and replaced the gasket, again. In no time, that leak was back, so again I pulled the cover. This time, I didn't use a gasket at all. I used form a gasket silicone for differentials. Again, in no time the same leak. I let it leak for a while, and discovered it was the front seal that was leaking. The yoke seal. So over the weekend, I replaced that seal. So far, so good. In all of this, my oil has been so clean, it looks like honey. When I replaced the seal, I did notice that the oil I lost was starting to have a darker tint to it. I should be around 3000 miles on my rebuild. The seal leak was so slight and was following the pumpkin so it looked like the cover gasket was leaking. When I pulled the seal, I didn't see anything wrong with it. IDK why it was leaking, but I replaced it with a timken double seal, so I should be good. At this point, I wouldn't hesitate to drive my truck across country. LOL well except for the MPGs.