Front wheels won't spin, stuck brakes?

[Schurkey]

I'm surprised to see you advocating the clamping of hoses.
To my mind, that risks the start of internal collapse so I wont clamp. No proof, just a hunch. But hoses do fail internally.

Clamp, not CRUSH. You only need enough force to close the fluid passage, not enough to squish the hose to death.

And, of course, this applies ONLY to "rubber" brake hoses. The fancy aftermarket steel-braid-over-Teflon (PTFE) liner hoses can not be clamped and survive.

 

[Headbanger]

I would have been tempted to just reach in and gently pry the pads away from the rotor, just enough to crack 'em loose, before spraying anything in there that would contaminate the pads or rotor surface. That's me though.

Richard

Here are a few things you can try. If you've already done these then forgive me. First: try pushing the piston back in the caliper bore. If it's frozen replace the caliper. If the square cut seal in the caliper is good look at the caliper slides. If they hang up then push them completely out and recondition them, and add silicone brake grease. Check your brake hose. Sometimes they'll collapse internally and act as a one check valve, and won't release pressure. Lastly with the caliper off look at the surfaces of both the steering knuckle which the brake caliper floats on and the caliper itself. Clean all rust using a file or wizz wheel, don't go crazy just ensure you have a smooth surface. Rust builds up and prevents movement of the caliper. Hope this helps.

 

[alpinecrick]

Thank you all so much for your replys!
I read all the posts yesterday and panicked a bit because it all seemed really difficult, I've never changed or worked on brakes before but I want to learn, just don't have anyone to teach me around here. But I found a couple videos on youtube on changing rotors and pads for this truck and it looks really easy! I feel soooo much better about it so I'm gonna do it myself. I got 4 weeks of vacation starting on monday so I should be able to pull this of.
(I'll testdrive it carefully before taking it on the public road!)
New pads and rotors for both sides is about $385, taking it to a mechanic is about $1000, learning something new and usefull = priceless!

Check RockAuto for prices, take it from there.

$385 seems a bit much.

Edited: I didn't notice the Sweden location.....

 

[vaporlock]

A little update.

So regarding the prices, I only converted Swedish money to Dollars, $1 is about 8.69 SEK, things cost more here but we also have a much higher average income than the US so the $385 is actually not that bad, the rotors for my Volvo (also big brakes) cost twice what the once for the truck cost. Does that make sense?
Also, my truck is an K1500HD so bigger brakes than the K1500 = more expensiver... great.

Anyways, I managed to pry the piston back so I could get the pads and rotor off, which was surprisingly easy and removed the caliper.
I bought what I thought I needed: rotors, pads, mounting bolt and the "rubber/plastic" thingys for the mounting holes. Got home and quickly realized I needed a tool to get the gaskets out of the mounting holes (the old once where destroyed) so couldn't continue 'til I had that.
A few days later, with the help of violence I got the old stuff off and new gaskets in, got the pads mounted in the caliper only to realize the piston won't go back further then the tiny bit they did at first, rotor don't even fit between the pads... So, now I'm waiting on new GM calipers which I hope to have at the end of the week and I'll probably need to replace some brakelines.
It's been raining on and off every day for the past week or two but this weekend should be nice so the plan is to get the brakes done and empty out the 3 year old gasoline. So hopefully by Monday it will have brakes and be running... maybe... hopefully... probably not.

Here's what they looked like after I got them off, pads are done for but the rotor has plenty of material left:

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As she sits, my dirty 3 legged friend.

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[Supercharged111]

I had this happen to me with one wheel on my 88 RCLB 2wd, it had sat for 2 years while I was stationed overseas. This was in the middle of winter, too. I just pried on the caliper to get it to open up wider than the rust ridge and putt putted down the road for a bit. I held my breath the first time I hit the brakes, but I was good to go after that. The rotors cleaned themselves and I had a lot more pad left than you.

 

[vaporlock]

@Supercharged111 Yeah, I've done that before with cars/trucks I've had parked over the winter but this truck's been standing in the same spot for 3 years. After I cleaned up the rotors with a wirewheel they still have deep pitting, especially were the pads were stuck.

And a question... I got the calipers, pads and rotors installed on both sides but the pads are just lightly brushing against the rotors, is that normal when everything is brand new? I put everything back the same why as the old ones.
I haven't added brake fluid or bled the brakes yet tho.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

@Supercharged111 Yeah, I've done that before with cars/trucks I've had parked over the winter but this truck's been standing in the same spot for 3 years. After I cleaned up the rotors with a wirewheel they still have deep pitting, especially were the pads were stuck.

And a question... I got the calipers, pads and rotors installed on both sides but the pads are just lightly brushing against the rotors, is that normal when everything is brand new? I put everything back the same why as the old ones.
I haven't added brake fluid or bled the brakes yet tho.

Yes the pads just clear the rotors; this is why some people say that disc brakes are self cleaning. As long as no foreign material ( like small rocks, sand, etc.) gets in between the pad and rotor surfaces, it's good.