Front wheel cotter pin size?

[Pinger]

The head is 9/16, which is 14.3mm.... of course wrenches won't be exactly either one, since that would make for a press fit.

I dug out my old set of (3/8 drive) sockets and have tried sockets from both it and my metric range using whatever feels the most snug fit. It's when I encounter a missing bolt (battery retainer) or need a longer bolt for some purpose (eg pulling harmonic balancer) or other pulling task (eg steering wheel) that it falls apart.

On anything else I'm working on (that is metric throughout) I have a stock of metric bolts (and taps) at hand to at least identify the thread even if the bolt isn't suitable (wrong length, needed elsewhere, etc). From there I can order what I need from a bolt stockist. It's that that I need to bring myself up to speed on with the Suburban. I'll get there!

 

[evilunclegrimace]

UNC is recognised/accepted/used in the USA then. I wasn't sure if that was just a British system. UNC and UNF are relatively easy to source here.

Yes UNC= Unified National coarse
UNF= Unified National Fine

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_States_Standard_thread

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Yes sometimes it is just a matter of trial and error. These trucks are very popular in Texas where l live, because you can carry so much in them. Today there's an auto swap meet in my hometown and l have seen plenty of 400 trucks and Suburbans. Even found a few parts which is not common. These trucks are popular too because the average person can still work on them with basic skills and tools. Your truck is just a baby compared to mine, it has 183,000 and change on it. Take care of them and they'll take care of you, l love these trucks!

 

[Pinger]

Yep, one of my main reasons for buying it was the ease of working and the general toughness. Modern cars are a nightmare with the level of complexity and computerisation and cramped to work on. The Suburban (GMT400 in general) are a breeze by comparison.
And the space! Downstairs it's a truck. Upstairs seats eight.

Checked out my headlight flash and it isn't there. Time to have a look into the switch. Once the brakes are sorted that is....

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Yep, one of my main reasons for buying it was the ease of working and the general toughness. Modern cars are a nightmare with the level of complexity and computerisation and cramped to work on. The Suburban (GMT400 in general) are a breeze by comparison.
And the space! Downstairs it's a truck. Upstairs seats eight.

Checked out my headlight flash and it isn't there. Time to have a look into the switch. Once the brakes are sorted that is....

If you need to flash the headlights, pulling the turn signal stalk switch towards the steering wheel activates the dimmer switch. If you normally drive with the low beams, that'll put the high beams on until you pull it that way again. Doing this twice quickly should give you the desired effect as the lights go from low to high and back.

 

[Pinger]

It should work with just one half pull though. It even feels like it should. Maybe it is a casualty of the change to UK spec lighting - or maybe the switch needs attention.

Been trying to straighten a crooked steering wheel and have found out the laborious way that it can't be done at the wheel so went to do it at the track rods but although the pinch clamps slacken easily, the slotted adjusters aren't keen on moving and I didn't at this stage want to force them and risk opening them up. What do you guys use for turning them? I was using Mole Grips as couldn't see any obvious flats for spanners. Anything I should know about these? Is there a danger of them opening up (and losing their hold) if forced? I've dosed them in releasant so maybe easier when I go back to them but still concerned that I spread/open them if too forceful.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

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