Front Seat Loose? Fix?

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BBslider001

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I looked for other threads and didn't find any real answers. It seems, after looking with a flashlight, that the pins seem to be the culprit? I am guessing the only real fix is new seat tracks?
 

BBslider001

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Driver's side seat, rocking motion and clicking sound from the tracks it seems. Common issue?
 
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Dariusz Salomon

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I'm a but confused here,tho you didn't say what year,midel,what kind of seat is that,if the frame is moving where it's bolted to the floor or the cushion,where it meets the frame. So if you want some advice you need to provide everybody with more information I'm affraid.
 

BBslider001

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I'm a but confused here,tho you didn't say what year,midel,what kind of seat is that,if the frame is moving where it's bolted to the floor or the cushion,where it meets the frame. So if you want some advice you need to provide everybody with more information I'm affraid.
Info of the truck is in my signature. I said "front seat" in the title. Driver or passenger doesn't really matter, but driver's side. So, front driver's side seat seems to be loose on the tracks. Common issue? Not sure. All bolts are tight. Upon examination with my flashlight, it seems the tracks themselves are allowing a rocking movement in the seat. The truck is green and the interior is gray cloth. it is a 4x4, hence the "K2500" title. :Big Laugh:
 

df2x4

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Info of the truck is in my signature.

Just FYI, not everyone can see signatures by default. Most mobile devices like phones and tablets require rotating the display to "landscape" mode, and some may lack that capability. I believe members have the option to disable signatures entirely as well, although don't quote me on that. Been a while since I checked... It's always a good idea to include the truck info even if it's in your sig.

1995 GMC K2500 Suburban is the truck in question in case anyone looking is still wondering.
 

sewlow

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I have a couple of 'Q's'.
Manual or power seats? Each have their own set of probs that can occur.
If manual, is the big spring under the seat still connected? It's designed to pull the seat forward. Without, the seat can be a bit of a bear to move easily.
Are the adjuster tabs on the arm completely locking into the adjustment holes. A bent or mis-aligned adjuster arm could be the culprit.
Electrics can develop play in the drive gears at the cable end which drives the tracks.
Both styles have rollers in the tracks.
Has one of the tracks spit one of those wheels out? It happens.
Are the rollers still round? If they jam-up due to lack of lube, causing the rollers not to roll or a larger than average person has put in a ton of seat time, they can develop flat spots.
When they get flat, the seat can be a PitA to adjust, along with creating larger than acceptable tolerances causing the seat to rock on the track with the play being between the upper & lower sliding parts of the tracks.
If you find none of this to be the problem, get in there & lube the tracks with a generous amount of white lithium. Anywhere & everywhere that there is a interface between moving parts.
 
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HotWheelsBurban

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I have a couple of 'Q's'.
Manual or power seats? Each have their own set of probs that can occur.
If manual, is the big spring under the seat still connected? It's designed to pull the seat forward. Without, the seat can be a bit of a bear to move easily.
Are the adjuster tabs on the arm completely locking into the adjustment holes. A bent or mis-aligned adjuster arm could be the culprit.
Electrics can develop play in the drive gears at the cable end which drives the tracks.
Both styles have rollers in the tracks.
Has one of the tracks spit one of those wheels out? It happens.
Are the rollers still round? If they jam-up due to lack of lube, causing the rollers not to roll or a larger than average person has put in a ton of seat time, they can develop flat spots.
When they get flat, the seat can be a PitA to adjust, along with creating larger than acceptable tolerances causing the seat to rock on the track with the play being between the upper & lower sliding parts of the tracks.
If you find none of this to be the problem, get in there & lube the tracks with a generous amount of white lithium. Anywhere & everywhere that there is a interface between moving parts.
Yup lithium grease will fix a lotta things! I keep a can of the sprayable type in the Burb; I spray the hood and door latches and hinges every couple of months (or if they make noise). I had to zap the hood latch on the crew cab; it was so tight I barely got it to move. Farm truck is full of good ol central Texas red iron dust....
The hood latch is working much better now,and I sprayed the door hinges and latches.
 
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