Front seal leak or oil pan leak

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GMTJunky

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For the timing chain I recommend the Cloyes true roller:


I think the plastic Dorman cover is fine. You can get it off Amazon for about $20 free ship but probably want to add it to your Summit order to get over the free ship mark if you get the timing chain from them. You'll need a gear puller to get the 4x reluctor wheel and crank sprocket off and a hollow tube for tapping them back on (I used a 1.5"x6" iron pipe nipple from Lowes which worked well). 1A Auto has a good video for timing chain replacement that will go through everything you'll face. Three issues with the video though: (1) they call the 4x reluctor wheel the "oil flinger" which is annoying, (2) they line up dot-to-dot and say this is #1 TDC compression which is both wrong - it's #6 TDC compression, #1 TDC exhaust - and very annoying and (3) they WAY overtorque the cover bolts. IIRC they say 18 ft-lbs in the video which is a good way to break the bolts. Correct is something like 100in-lbs max. The hardest part is getting the crank pulley off. Everything else is pretty easy. Why are you replacing the harmonic balancer?
I was reading some about the harmonic balancer having rubber that can get corroded and make it unbalanced, and being as I jacked it up by that piece I assume I might have caused some further damage. I figure I might as well replace it while I am in there because Im sure it is still OEM. Im excessive sometimes when replacing parts. I will replace cheaper items if they are in a difficult to get to place that I will already be ripping into. I found most of these parts on rockauto. They have the cloyes gear set and their pricing is always very competitive.

Ill check out the A1 auto video and do some more research to make sure I know what Im doing. Appreciate your help.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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When you're not sure if something is damaged, and you have the money and time to replace it, that's probably the best course of action. I try to do this when possible; one of the things my dad passed to me as a good thing to do on repairs.
 

JeremyNH

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I was reading some about the harmonic balancer having rubber that can get corroded and make it unbalanced, and being as I jacked it up by that piece I assume I might have caused some further damage. I figure I might as well replace it while I am in there because Im sure it is still OEM. Im excessive sometimes when replacing parts. I will replace cheaper items if they are in a difficult to get to place that I will already be ripping into. I found most of these parts on rockauto. They have the cloyes gear set and their pricing is always very competitive.

Ill check out the A1 auto video and do some more research to make sure I know what Im doing. Appreciate your help.
Your call on the harmonic balancer. I have a 98 L31 and there isn't any rubber on it that I know of. It's just one solid piece of metal.
 

Erik the Awful

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All the SBC dampers I've had have the rubber ring. I was going to comment that you don't need to replace it, but the rubber does wear out over time, so it's not a bad idea. Since your timing cover is leaking, replacing it is the best bet.

The pic shows your crank seal is fine!

Whether your put your timing marks together (I find it easier to see) or put them both at 12 o'clock, install the new set in the same position and you'll be fine. Together is TDC on #6, 12 is TDC on #1, but you shouldn't be pulling the distributor, so you really don't care so long as you get the new ones in the same.
 

GMTJunky

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Are the key on the crankshaft removable? I am trying to put the new crank gear on and it wont slide down the second key. Are the keys suppossed to have a space on them?
 
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