Front End Rebuild-K2500 Burban

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BBslider001

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What kind of grease are you guys using? Lucas red or something else?
 

SomeTahoe

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I've been using Mystik JT-6 High Temp. It's readily available near me and the technical data sheet suggest it has some, albeit small, advantages over Red-N-Tacky.

Red-N-Tacky TDS: https://lucasoil.com/pdf/TDS_Red-Tacky-Grease.pdf
Mystik JT-6 High Temp TDS: http://www.docs.citgo.com/msds_pi/591094.pdf

though at the end of the day, for parts like ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. that normally use basic chassis grease, almost any grease you find at your local parts store will likely be fine
 

Schurkey

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The dirty secret of "grease" is that it shouldn't be mixed with other greases.

You have five guys grease your suspension, you have five different kinds of grease inside each joint. Some greases are TOTALLY not compatible with others, and react poorly.

"Grease" is made up of oil plus a "bulky" carrier. The carrier doesn't lubricate anything, it's just there to release oil into the joint over time. There's a dozen different basic types of carriers, and I suppose hundreds of different formulations.

So, for example, you get a grease that's made with a Lithium soap base. Then you mix it with a grease that's got a diatomacious clay base. The "soap" tries to wash away the "clay".

What is the best automotive grease? The short answer is ANY ONE KIND, clean, and fresh. The somewhat longer answer is to have a grease with an NLGI rating for both wheel bearing use, AND chassis service (ball joints, for example.) Wheel bearing grease is labeled "G", while chassis grease is labeled "L". The quality grades range from "A" to "C" for wheel bearing grease, "A" to "B" for chassis grease. So what you want to look for is a grease that meets BOTH "GC" and "LB" standards. This is not at all difficult.

Lastly, greases have different viscosity just like motor oil. "5" is like cheese, "000" is very runny. Grade 2 is enormously common for automotive use.

I keep multiple kinds of specialized greases on hand, but for typical chassis and wheel bearing use, I use Valvoline products. Not expensive, easy to source. I stock their "Red" "GM-Chrysler-Import" grease, and their "Ford-Lincoln-Mercury" grey-black "Moly-fortified" stuff. My grease gun cartridges are also the Ford "Moly-fortified" stuff. These are all NLGI #2, LB/GC rated.

www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV614-Multi-Purpose-Grease-General/dp/B01LRH6VHU/ref=sr_1_23?crid=1G6HHPI2DSH17
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www.amazon.com/Multi-Purpose-Grease-Moly-Fortified-1-Lb/dp/B014M9GK0S/ref=sr_1_28?crid=1G6HHPI2DSH17
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BBslider001

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The dirty secret of "grease" is that it shouldn't be mixed with other greases.

You have five guys grease your suspension, you have five different kinds of grease inside each joint. Some greases are TOTALLY not compatible with others, and react poorly.

"Grease" is made up of oil plus a "bulky" carrier. The carrier doesn't lubricate anything, it's just there to release oil into the joint over time. There's a dozen different basic types of carriers, and I suppose hundreds of different formulations.

So, for example, you get a grease that's made with a Lithium soap base. Then you mix it with a grease that's got a diatomacious clay base. The "soap" tries to wash away the "clay".

What is the best automotive grease? The short answer is ANY ONE KIND, clean, and fresh. The somewhat longer answer is to have a grease with an NLGI rating for both wheel bearing use, AND chassis service (ball joints, for example.) Wheel bearing grease is labeled "G", while chassis grease is labeled "L". The quality grades range from "A" to "C" for wheel bearing grease, "A" to "B" for chassis grease. So what you want to look for is a grease that meets BOTH "GC" and "LB" standards. This is not at all difficult.

Lastly, greases have different viscosity just like motor oil. "5" is like cheese, "000" is very runny. Grade 2 is enormously common for automotive use.

I keep multiple kinds of specialized greases on hand, but for typical chassis and wheel bearing use, I use Valvoline products. Not expensive, easy to source. I stock their "Red" "GM-Chrysler-Import" grease, and their "Ford-Lincoln-Mercury" grey-black "Moly-fortified" stuff. My grease gun cartridges are also the Ford "Moly-fortified" stuff. These are all NLGI #2, LB/GC rated.

www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV614-Multi-Purpose-Grease-General/dp/B01LRH6VHU/ref=sr_1_23?crid=1G6HHPI2DSH17
You must be registered for see images attach


www.amazon.com/Multi-Purpose-Grease-Moly-Fortified-1-Lb/dp/B014M9GK0S/ref=sr_1_28?crid=1G6HHPI2DSH17
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This is simply THE best education I have received regarding grease. I love it. Thank you.
 

89obsSB

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The dirty secret of "grease" is that it shouldn't be mixed with other greases.

You have five guys grease your suspension, you have five different kinds of grease inside each joint. Some greases are TOTALLY not compatible with others, and react poorly.

"Grease" is made up of oil plus a "bulky" carrier. The carrier doesn't lubricate anything, it's just there to release oil into the joint over time. There's a dozen different basic types of carriers, and I suppose hundreds of different formulations.

So, for example, you get a grease that's made with a Lithium soap base. Then you mix it with a grease that's got a diatomacious clay base. The "soap" tries to wash away the "clay".

What is the best automotive grease? The short answer is ANY ONE KIND, clean, and fresh. The somewhat longer answer is to have a grease with an NLGI rating for both wheel bearing use, AND chassis service (ball joints, for example.) Wheel bearing grease is labeled "G", while chassis grease is labeled "L". The quality grades range from "A" to "C" for wheel bearing grease, "A" to "B" for chassis grease. So what you want to look for is a grease that meets BOTH "GC" and "LB" standards. This is not at all difficult.

Lastly, greases have different viscosity just like motor oil. "5" is like cheese, "000" is very runny. Grade 2 is enormously common for automotive use.

I keep multiple kinds of specialized greases on hand, but for typical chassis and wheel bearing use, I use Valvoline products. Not expensive, easy to source. I stock their "Red" "GM-Chrysler-Import" grease, and their "Ford-Lincoln-Mercury" grey-black "Moly-fortified" stuff. My grease gun cartridges are also the Ford "Moly-fortified" stuff. These are all NLGI #2, LB/GC rated.

www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV614-Multi-Purpose-Grease-General/dp/B01LRH6VHU/ref=sr_1_23?crid=1G6HHPI2DSH17
You must be registered for see images attach


www.amazon.com/Multi-Purpose-Grease-Moly-Fortified-1-Lb/dp/B014M9GK0S/ref=sr_1_28?crid=1G6HHPI2DSH17
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Oh lord. It’ll never work properly if you use this ford grease on your GM. Lol
 

BBslider001

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Got it back this afternoon. It dirives straight and has a much better feel....but there is a vibration form the rear end at 70 mph. I am pretty discouraged. I am hoping the new drums are just out of whack and I can get them replaced. Remember, I had this in for all rear brakes about 6 weeks ago before the front end. I really don't think that guy knew what he was doing. I have read that many times these new drums come unbalanced. I am hoping that is the deal. I don't know what else it could be.
 

Caman96

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That’s a buzz kill. :mad: How does front end feel, any play in wheel?
 
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