Front End Rebuild-K2500 Burban

[BBslider001]

Sounds good, where is this guy located? He sounds kinda like my guy in Conroe, but I know it's not him cause he doesn't like Camaros lol. He's more into old school stuff; building hot rods and vintage cars. 30s, 40s, 50s stuff.

He is in Alvarado, about 8 miles from me.....south of Fort Worth. Yeah this guy is younger than me, but very into hot rods and diesels. Looks like he does good work too from what I saw.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

He is in Alvarado, about 8 miles from me.....south of Fort Worth. Yeah this guy is younger than me, but very into hot rods and diesels. Looks like he does good work too from what I saw.

Yes I know where that is! Little bit far from Houston though, for me. Conroe is far enough lol!

 

[amrush2112]

I just wrapped up doing my 99 K2500. I went with the Mevotek TTX upper and lower ball joints and ended up using AC Delco for the smaller lower control arm bushings and Moog for the bigger lower control arm bushing. If yours has the forged lowers then it uses the rubber CA bushings without the sleeve. Couldn't find the replacement lower arms and just got the bushings. I used this as a great reference point. (

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). I ended up not burning out the bushings and rented a tool from Advanced Auto and it saved the day! For the bushings to press in on the lowers I used some wheel bearing grease and a 12 Ton press from Harbor Freight. For the sleeved upper control arms I used the tool and got the job done. Note - to remove the lower on the drivers side you will need to loosen the bolts on the front diff and remove the one closest to the lower control arm bolt because it hits the axle flange. Once I had that bolt out you can get a prybar and wasn't too bad getting it to clear. Note - Front hubs are heavy as hell so it is way easier to remove all rotors and calipers from spindle and support out of way than take them off as an assembly. I spent about $300 ish bucks on bushings and ball joints. Spent another $170 on press but I needed it anyways. Good luck.

 

[Caman96]

I think Mevotech TTX is getting a bad rap in this thread. Yeah there’s some bad reviews out there but I’ve seen way more bad reviews on Moog, which is a shell of itself from what it once was. This picture speaks for itself.
Moog . Mevotech TTX

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A few more TTX pics…..

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[Dravec]

I have a bunch of Duralast Gold parts for my rigs, but on one of them, I may go with the TTX stuff just to see.

 

[offroadtahoe]

I'm using Mevotech TTX tie rods,lowers
on 38.5x14.50x16.5 Interco tires
figured I'd leave my review of them,worth every penny,There still as tight as the day i put them in and been running for at least 2yrs,stock ones would be sloppy already

 

[BBslider001]

Well, I ordered all my parts last night except the steering gearbox. I'll have the guy doing the work get it from his guy that builds them. I got everything TTX that I could and AC Delco for the other (pitman, idler, bracket). I actually got upper controls with BJs and will have him change them out to the TTX.

I'm just really hoping the unbalanced tire feel goes away. The front end needs to be done either way, but two opinions seem to think the shake at 60-75 is defintiely shot tie rods and BJs. After an entire front end rebuild, there is nothing else it could be. Tires have been rotated and balanced ......twice. The hack that worked on the rear brakes and axle seals said he "skidded it" in his drive to set the shoes in the rear. Man I was so pizzed. What an idiot. I watched him at one point because he wanted me to do it to "See how the brakes feel". I was like, "manThey feel fine without me going to 35mph and burying the pedal to get them to work". They were going to the floor and now they aren't....problem solved. I wonder if he just exacerbated an issue in the front end by doing that nonsense. I hope that's all it is. If not, I guess I'll find out and be digging after the rebuild. Can't wait to have a shop or at least a garage again. I'll go back to doing everything myself.

This truck drove like a Caddy when I brought it home from Colorado 6 months ago and only changed after he worked on it.

 

[Caman96]

changed after he worked on it.

Listen to your “inner” mechanic and RUN!

 

[Caman96]

I would also consider the SuperSteer Idler Bracket and Cognito Pitman/Idler Brackets. If your going in, spend a little more.

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[Schurkey]

I'm just really hoping the unbalanced tire feel goes away. The front end needs to be done either way, but two opinions seem to think the shake at 60-75 is defintiely shot tie rods and BJs. After an entire front end rebuild, there is nothing else it could be.

Do you feel the shake in the steering wheel, or in the seat?

Steering wheel = Probably the front end
Seat = Probably somewhere else

When my Trailblazer had a shake that would make the rear view mirror useless, starting at 68 mph, worst at 73 mph, and gone by 80 mph, it was the rear U-joint of the rear drive shaft. Twice. The second time, I replaced the driveshaft. That Trailblazer now has nearly 270K miles on it, and I think it's just taken-out a front wheel bearing/hub assembly. I mostly hear the moaning/howling; but there's some shake in the steering wheel, too.

Even if the tires are balanced, brake drums or brake rotors might not be. As the drums/rotors rust away, the balance changes. Excess brake rotor runout can cause a shake even when the brakes are not applied...although it's usually worse when the brakes are applied lightly.

Tires have been rotated and balanced ......twice. The hack that worked on the rear brakes and axle seals said he "skidded it" in his drive to set the shoes in the rear... ...I wonder if he just exacerbated an issue in the front end by doing that nonsense.

Skidding the tires wouldn't change anything in the "front end" that wasn't already worn-out. Flat-spotting the tires could cause a shake. But if he did this in his driveway, there probably wasn't enough speed to make a long-enough skid to flat-spot the tires.

Variations in tire sidewall stiffness is another possibility; but that would be consistent from the time the tires were installed. Also tends to be worst on low-profile "rubber band" tires rather than the taller-sidewall tires like the trucks use.