front end alignment results...

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BOTTLEDZ28

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I had the whole front replaced on my truck last week and had to get it realigned today. Truck has 2" lift blocks in the rear and a torsion bar crank up front to level it out. Here are results of my alignment. Can anyone here make sense of the numbers?? The shop said they could not change the camber and caster due to the truck be cranked. Are the numbers they ended up with within reason for a truck that is cranked and running 33s?



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badazzbulldog

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did they look to see if the knock outs for the upper control arms were punched out without those removed you cant adjust camber
 

BOTTLEDZ28

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The same shop did the alignment last year for me without any issues. I bought the Moog caster/camber bolt kit too MOOG Part # K6302 so I dont know what the hell these guys are talking about
 

BOTTLEDZ28

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I just looked into those knock outs and I just left a message for the guy that did the front end rebuild to see if he noticed the knock outs or not. If he doesnt recall them being there then I have no choice but to check for myself to verify. I just dont know if its needed because I have no idea how to read the alignment sheet. I dont know what is acceptable for these trucks with a torsion bar crank.
 

badazzbulldog

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the knock outs are where the moog bolts you bought go thru if its just a round hole where the bolt goes thru the upper control arm brackets they havent been knocked out if its an oval shaped slot they have been punched out that allows the cam on the bolt to move the upper control arm adjustment
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left side not punched out right side is what it should look like
 
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BOTTLEDZ28

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thanks. Looks like I either have to pull this truck apart this weekend and verify if the knockouts have been removed or say the hell with it and drive the truck with the alignment specs I have. I have no idea if -2.5 degrees of camber is bad for my tires IF I rotate them every 4K miles.
 

BOTTLEDZ28

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What I dont understand is how slotted holes in the control arm are going to keep the bolts in place when the truck hits a pothole at 70mph. The impact would surely force the upper control arm to be pushed inward no matter how tight the bolts are. Maybe Im missing something here.
 

Steve's Chevy

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What I dont understand is how slotted holes in the control arm are going to keep the bolts in place when the truck hits a pothole at 70mph. The impact would surely force the upper control arm to be pushed inward no matter how tight the bolts are. Maybe Im missing something here.

Nope , just over thinking it..... I get the same print outs from a shop who USED TO align my truck........They go by the computer and STOCK specs only... A off road shop would give better info and alignments.
 

BOTTLEDZ28

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I told the shop NOT to use factory specs because of the cranking. I told them it had to be manually done just like they did last year for me on the same truck with the same crank. They charged me $90 last year with nothing said about the camber. This year, they tell me they cant do it and only charge me $30 for a set up fee and just did the toe adjustment. So they either did the same adjustment last year and charged me full price or they had a lazy employee this year who didn't feel like doing the job.
Either way, I have to make a decision here on what I am going to do. I'm just not sure if the camber on my truck is excessive or not.
 
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