Front brakes help!

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Erik the Awful

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Did you bed them in properly?

Here's my method:
Drive them around a few blocks to warm them up. Do a few normal stops. Accelerate to about 50-60 mph and jam on them. Drive a few blocks and let them cool down. Do another jam at about 45 mph. Drive a few blocks too cool down and park it. Done.

I'll guarantee someone else will say I'm destroying my brake pads, but I've bedded them this way for years and haven't had a problem.
 

SUBURBAN5

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Did you bed them in properly?

Here's my method:
Drive them around a few blocks to warm them up. Do a few normal stops. Accelerate to about 50-60 mph and jam on them. Drive a few blocks and let them cool down. Do another jam at about 45 mph. Drive a few blocks too cool down and park it. Done.

I'll guarantee someone else will say I'm destroying my brake pads, but I've bedded them this way for years and haven't had a problem.

Actually your pretty right on.... I'm looking at performance brake rotors and they instruct to do something similar.
 

Ehall8702

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I've been a professional mechanic over 10 years now but but have been working on things my whole life. I ha e NEVER bed in a set of brakes , absolutely no need to on any stock replacement brake on the market. As for race compounds and such, maybe that's a thing tho. Some higher performance pads I've put on have had a green stripe on em, but I've never done anything different. I literally do 15-20 brake jobs a week and have had zero failures from not bedding them in. On a side note, there is absolutely no need to bleed brakes after doing a brake job unless a caliper,hose or line is replaced. Open ur resivoir cap,slowly push caliper piston back with a c clamp or expensive tool that does same thing. Pump up ur brakes when ur done and that's it. Drives me nuts ppl say u HAVE to bleed em Everytime, just wasting time and effort and leaving room for errors in the bleeding process and ****** pedal afterwards
 

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Push the caliper piston back with the bleed valve closed and the dirtiest of the fluid is pushed back up the line. Maybe it gets as far as the ABS unit - maybe not. But why take that risk when there's the double benefit of getting the filthiest fluid out of the system?
 

454cid

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I've been a professional mechanic over 10 years now but but have been working on things my whole life. I ha e NEVER bed in a set of brakes , absolutely no need to on any stock replacement brake on the market. As for race compounds and such, maybe that's a thing tho.

I've also read that it isn't necessary with modern parts. I think it's a hold over from years ago.

On a side note, there is absolutely no need to bleed brakes after doing a brake job unless a caliper,hose or line is replaced. Open ur resivoir cap,slowly push caliper piston back with a c clamp or expensive tool that does same thing. Pump up ur brakes when ur done and that's it. Drives me nuts ppl say u HAVE to bleed em Everytime, just wasting time and effort and leaving room for errors in the bleeding process and ****** pedal afterwards

Supposedly forcing fluid in reverse like that can damage some more delicate ABS systems, but that doesn't include our trucks..... I did that for years because I always had such a rough time bleeding brakes in the past. I've gotten better at it, and have let the fluid run out completely, in recent times, in order to change out the old nasty stuff.[/QUOTE]
 

454cid

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Push the caliper piston back with the bleed valve closed and the dirtiest of the fluid is pushed back up the line. Maybe it gets as far as the ABS unit - maybe not. But why take that risk when there's the double benefit of getting the filthiest fluid out of the system?

I believe our ABS units are out of the loop until activated.
 

Ehall8702

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I believe our ABS units are out of the loop until activated.
**** I still do it, late models ( we work in 2019 cars) and even prius . Most brake systems are 500+ psi , u cannot create that with a c clamp, especially doing it slowly. But definantly do open the top of the resivoir as u r pushing in cause I have seen a resivoir pop with the cap tightly on and pushing pistons in!

I can see wanting to get dirtier fluid out,but the caliper has a resivoir inside if it basically, and between the brake hose and the amount of line (even the closest one to the abs block) you would never move enuff fluid from caliper back wards up into abs block or even in old cars an proportioning valve. To each thier own tho, IMHO it's just wasting time, but I get paid by doing a job properly ,quickly and efficiently.
 
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I've been a professional mechanic over 10 years now but but have been working on things my whole life. I ha e NEVER bed in a set of brakes , absolutely no need to on any stock replacement brake on the market. As for race compounds and such, maybe that's a thing tho. Some higher performance pads I've put on have had a green stripe on em, but I've never done anything different. I literally do 15-20 brake jobs a week and have had zero failures from not bedding them in. On a side note, there is absolutely no need to bleed brakes after doing a brake job unless a caliper,hose or line is replaced. Open ur resivoir cap,slowly push caliper piston back with a c clamp or expensive tool that does same thing. Pump up ur brakes when ur done and that's it. Drives me nuts ppl say u HAVE to bleed em Everytime, just wasting time and effort and leaving room for errors in the bleeding process and ****** pedal afterwards
You’re correct. They’re talking about “bedding” or sintering brake pads and that was common when less advanced materials were used to make pads and rotors. Now when you over heat a new efficient pad/rotor when they’re new is forms a crystalline in the semi-metallic pads and ruins them. If you’re sintering the ceramic pads a similar process occurs but it does drastically reduce the life of the hardware by doing so. No needs for warning them up boys. That’s old school. Btw the Powerstop products all suck. Spend the money on the thickest oem or better rotors and a good set of pads, upgrade your Dot fluid when applicable and bleed properly. That’ll do it.
 

Matt98

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I've been a professional mechanic over 10 years now but but have been working on things my whole life. I ha e NEVER bed in a set of brakes , absolutely no need to on any stock replacement brake on the market. As for race compounds and such, maybe that's a thing tho. Some higher performance pads I've put on have had a green stripe on em, but I've never done anything different. I literally do 15-20 brake jobs a week and have had zero failures from not bedding them in. On a side note, there is absolutely no need to bleed brakes after doing a brake job unless a caliper,hose or line is replaced. Open ur resivoir cap,slowly push caliper piston back with a c clamp or expensive tool that does same thing. Pump up ur brakes when ur done and that's it. Drives me nuts ppl say u HAVE to bleed em Everytime, just wasting time and effort and leaving room for errors in the bleeding process and ****** pedal afterwards

Not true, Powerstop brakes for sure say to bed them in right on the box. I've had AC Delco pads squeak a few times and the pad physically looks hard, which I believe from whoever doing the brakes not bedding them in properly. It also really helps on rotors where the whole surface is coated to burn the coating off.

Now, I've rarely done this but you SHOULD bleed brakes after changing them. When you press the caliper piston in, the correct way is to open the bleeder, press the piston in and close the bleeder, then when you pump the brakes back up bleed them again. This is because there is a potential for any dirt/etc that could possibly be in the caliper for whatever reason now backwashing back into the flex hoses/rest of the brake system, maybe from lack of changing the fluid etc. I've NEVER had a problem just pushing them in but that's the reason why you're supposed to.
 
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