Frame

[Jessegodwin43]

What's a good way to fix front spring hanger on passenger side

 

[RichLo]

We just had a question similar to this about a crack in a frame. Drill holes at the ends of the cracks to keep them from spreading then weld away after getting it down to bare metal. Either have a good 220v welder or take it to a competent welder locally, no flux-core booger shooter ebay specials.

 

[94K3500PROJECT]

Those are very odd looking already.
It definitely can be fixed but I’m gonna leave that for someone who’s experienced in making that kind of repair

you’ll need to start with removing the spring hanger entirely so that the repair can be made.
You’ll just bolt the brackets on after the frame is repaired.
I’ve bolts all my brackets/crossmembers on from the cab back (not all of them in place in the pic)

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[kennythewelder]

You can't weld on top of a crack. It will crack again if you do. You have to grind out the crack then weld the area where the crack was. Also you need to drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it from spreading. What can be removed and replaced, needs to be done. Problem with what can not be removed, is that the metal is stressed. That's why it cracked to start with. If it was my truck, I would probably make some large plates with rounded edges, and cur out the cracked area plus 50 to 100 percent more of the area. That way you remove all of the stressed metal and replace it with new metal. The smallest filler piece I would use would be about 3"x4" with 2" radius corners. The brackets can just be removed and replaced.

 

[94K3500PROJECT]

I would back up the entire spring bracket area with a plate drilled to accept the bolts used for the spring hanger

 

[kennythewelder]

Oh, and I 100% agree with the welding machine. A 120 Volt machine will never work for a job like this. FWIW, in a case like this, pay a certified welder to do a job like this, or at least a welder that does it for a living.

 

[Hipster]

I would clean it up , drill stop the cracks, weld it up, and touch up the 4 mounting holes with a carbide burr. cleanup the welds until almost completely flat. Then I would fashion a form fitting slightly longer plate to go inside the frame rail(s). Once I got ready to do the final upfit on the plate, brkt hholes drilled, ends tapered for and aft etc I would drill/prep the actual frame rail for several rosette/plug welds mainly fore and aft of the bracket holes(8 total), maybe a few through the center on the rail itself. . Since the piece is fully prepped now bolt it in with the bracket mounting holes. Weld the perimeter from the inside the the rail and the rosette's from the outside.

Use the same thickmess or slightly thicker material. Mill scale removed. No need to try and weld a 3/8 thick piece in there.

Welding, Yeah. 220v machine, but if you don't have the frame fixtured and or supported somehow you have to watch the heat. One inch stitch, walk away and let it cool, skip around.

For the 8 bolt's and disconnecting the harness, taking the bed off is going to make the rest of it much easier to do and you can work like a human being with everything within arms reach. Set up much like 94k3500's pic supported under the cab. Do not jack one rail up with the frame all twisted and go to welding.

I would probably hammer weld those cracks.