Frame rust hole. Am I fu**ed?

Discussion in 'Paint / Body / Detailing' started by Tlee94sbc350, Aug 14, 2019.

  1. 884x4310ci

    884x4310ci I'm Awesome

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    I am not sure I don't have one of them. And not sure if what they can do.
    But if they can go t 80 amps. It should be fine.
     
  2. Supercharged111

    Supercharged111 I'm Awesome

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    How many settings does it have? My friend had a cheapass Harbor Freight welder with 1 feed speed and 2 heat settings. That thing was about worthless.
     
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  3. Tlee94sbc350

    Tlee94sbc350 I'm Awesome

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    Not sure. I'll have to Google it. I have the cheapo flux core welder and it does just fine if you prep the surface and watch your weld puddle.
     
  4. Supercharged111

    Supercharged111 I'm Awesome

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    I've welded flux core since I got my welder in 2012, but it lets me control wire speed and current soooo much better than that Hobo Freight welder of which I speak.
     
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  5. Hipster

    Hipster I'm Awesome

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    //
    An 80a welder will barely stick 2 pieces of 16 gauges together. They just don't have enough ass to weld a frame that's probably close to 3/16 give or take. You can end up with a beautiful looking weld that's just sitting on top of the metal. A cold weld with little fusion or penetration.

    Not to say it can't be done other ways(stick) but Er70s6 is what's recommended for everything autobody and does ok given less then polished clean metal.

    In your shoes without equipment. I would get all my patches made up, fitted, everything ready to go, and go to a local rent-a-center and rent a 140a whatever they got mig.

    Probably have to have the gas tank out so you can move the fuel lines , brake lines and wiring away from the drivers side rail.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2019
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  6. PlayingWithTBI

    PlayingWithTBI Desert Old Guy

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    I use my old 225A (60% duty cycle) wire feed with 0.035" wire and 75%/25% gas at the highest settings (8 or 9), and wire speed. It's almost like spray arcing. With a smaller welder you may need to preheat the plate and frame (to at least 600*) to get enough penetration and flow, then cool down slowly. Hell, you should preheat either way.
     
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  7. Hipster

    Hipster I'm Awesome

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    I have 2 machines, A miller 211 auto-set, and Snap-on MM250. My rule of thumb is anything above 14g the big one comes out. I don't remember the duty cycle wide open on the Snap-on but at 160a it's 100% and I have melted the gun on it lol.. Also an old transformer based 200lb plus unit. I like the .030 wire. I can do some moderate stuff and tune down into some lighter gauge stuff without having to change set-ups. I pretty much keep .024 in the Miller anymore. Late models are thin.

    Spray-arc? I cranked that snap-on up and it was shooting molten metal.
     
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  8. PlayingWithTBI

    PlayingWithTBI Desert Old Guy

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    Yeah, that's kinda the theory but when they spray arc they usually use 95%/5% gas. I've never done it but watched it done when welding heavy plate.
     
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  9. Hipster

    Hipster I'm Awesome

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    I'm not up on all of different types of welding . I know the manual for my Snap-on goes over how to set up for that but I didn't read through that part of the destructions lol.I haven't had much formal training other then through the I-Car programs. Basically they go over welding procedures, for autobody, dealing with HSLA steels etc. Moreso about proper repair procedures, but they do have you do different types of welds and send them off for destructive testing before you get the I-Car cert.
     
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  10. ryon

    ryon Newbie

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    U can try and weld it if not part it out lmk if u wanna part ways I need parts
     

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