Discussion in 'Towing' started by Shorty01GMC, Oct 8, 2018.
It’s a crew cab short bed single rear wheel..
I wouldn't hesitate to put it on the trailer. Short distance, lower speeds, mostly flat. Wouldn't scare me a bit.
Now I’m wondering what the truck weighs...
Probably closer to 7000 than 6000 lbs.
7k on top of a 16’ steel floor trailer would be rough on a half ton..
It’s 181 miles.. cheapest quote I’ve gotten is a hotshot truck for $450..
I have done a lot worse. One load was a wrecked 1 ton E350. That ended up being a slow ride home. The worst one was a 1/2 ton Suburban pulling a load of metal roofing 22' long on a 16' trailer. That was a 35 mph 250 mile trip home. $450 isn't too bad. When my Suburban died on me, the 35 mile tow was $250. Me, in your situation, I would load it up and save the $450 on my leisurely drive home. I would make it all about the adventure!
I tow bar'd a loaded down Crown Vic from the U.P. of MI to Rapid City, SD. It was kinda sketchy, but I got over it. Was pulling 80mph across SD pulling with my 88 C1500 RCSB 4.7/700R4 3.73. If the tow vehicle in question is in fact a 1500 and there are no significant hills I'd lean toward the tow bar myself. I pulled the same Crown Vic with my 98 K1500 in sig on an open deck trailer and that was white knuckle. Truck would not take the tongue weight that it needed to be balanced and that was lighter than a CCSB 2500 for sure.
I've towed a 1/2 ton extra cab shortbed on my 16' trailer. Just make sure you can get the tongue weight right so you don't get any sway.
I have a tow bar in my hands now., buddy at work had it in his shop.. I have to make the vehicle side brackets.. I don’t feel the bumper is strong enough to bolt to... the bumper is getting replaced so the holes wouldn’t bother me..
I plan to use 1/4” 3”x3” angle., bolted to tow hook holes, then bolt/weld angle across front to connect them and then bolt/weld the brackets for tow bar to that..
Buddy pulled a 97 f250 700 miles with it lol
Separate names with a comma.