Kawabuggy
Newbie
I don't want to get off into a nomenclature argument so if you have an issue with what I'm calling the pieces-DO NOT BOTHER to post. With that out of the way...
I have been driving the truck around now for a while and decided that today was the day to tackle the "twitchy" off-center steering. I had ordered a lower GPM FITTING from Turn One. Since I did not have my pump apart at the time I was ordering we had to guess as to which FITTING I needed. So... the tech told me that the 2.5GPM FITTING was the most common one sold. I purchased the 2.5GPM fitting and it came in this past week. Today I pulled my old FITTING out of the power steering box-hint; suction out as much of the fluid out of the p/s reservoir as you can before you start the project lest you find yourself in a bath of p/s fluid. I have a lift so essentially I was working over-head... Nothing like P/s fluid in your arm pits.. Both of them. Anyway... the Turn One fitting (2.5GPM) the orifice in the middle measures .134". I have a PIN set for measuring orifices and this is the largest pin I could fit through the hole. The factory valve I removed... also a .134". I have a spare p/s pump off another LS here so i pulled that FITTING and measured it at .144" (3.0GPM?). So it looks like I wasted my time ordering the new fitting. While I had it apart I noticed that it had 1 shim under the screened cap on the flow control valve. I measured that shim thickness at approximately .020".. From reading I know that if you shim that cap you can reduce pressure. So.. I found a standard flat washer that is .041" thick and put it under the cap leaving out the factory .020" shim.. Put it all back together and I have achieved exactly what I want.. Going down the road now the wheel has resistance if you attempt to move it either direction left or right of center. I wonder what it would have felt like had I gotten the 2.0GPM FITTING? Who knows.. I'm leaving it alone at this point as I consider this success. When driving straight down the road and you try to slightly correct left, or right, you can now feel resistance and instead of the wheel moving quickly and the truck darting. The wheel just moves more slowly allowing you to correct your aim without over-correcting. Hope you guys are having fun with your projects... Next up for me... I've got all the pieces for "shade tree coil overs" here and I'm putting them together in the next few weeks..
I have been driving the truck around now for a while and decided that today was the day to tackle the "twitchy" off-center steering. I had ordered a lower GPM FITTING from Turn One. Since I did not have my pump apart at the time I was ordering we had to guess as to which FITTING I needed. So... the tech told me that the 2.5GPM FITTING was the most common one sold. I purchased the 2.5GPM fitting and it came in this past week. Today I pulled my old FITTING out of the power steering box-hint; suction out as much of the fluid out of the p/s reservoir as you can before you start the project lest you find yourself in a bath of p/s fluid. I have a lift so essentially I was working over-head... Nothing like P/s fluid in your arm pits.. Both of them. Anyway... the Turn One fitting (2.5GPM) the orifice in the middle measures .134". I have a PIN set for measuring orifices and this is the largest pin I could fit through the hole. The factory valve I removed... also a .134". I have a spare p/s pump off another LS here so i pulled that FITTING and measured it at .144" (3.0GPM?). So it looks like I wasted my time ordering the new fitting. While I had it apart I noticed that it had 1 shim under the screened cap on the flow control valve. I measured that shim thickness at approximately .020".. From reading I know that if you shim that cap you can reduce pressure. So.. I found a standard flat washer that is .041" thick and put it under the cap leaving out the factory .020" shim.. Put it all back together and I have achieved exactly what I want.. Going down the road now the wheel has resistance if you attempt to move it either direction left or right of center. I wonder what it would have felt like had I gotten the 2.0GPM FITTING? Who knows.. I'm leaving it alone at this point as I consider this success. When driving straight down the road and you try to slightly correct left, or right, you can now feel resistance and instead of the wheel moving quickly and the truck darting. The wheel just moves more slowly allowing you to correct your aim without over-correcting. Hope you guys are having fun with your projects... Next up for me... I've got all the pieces for "shade tree coil overs" here and I'm putting them together in the next few weeks..