Factory radio install

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AK49BWL

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Heh.... Brake cleaner I think would work pretty well maybe? That's a pretty significant issue if the whole truck is dying tho. Somewhere is a loose connection.
 

df2x4

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That's a pretty significant issue if the whole truck is dying tho. Somewhere is a loose connection.

Was about to post this but you beat me to it. This really sounds like a pretty major connection issue somewhere. I'd be checking battery cables closely.

Another random thought but OP says the battery is a "new high crank" type, it's not an Optima is it? I had an issue with one of them years ago where the positive side terminal had a short or crack internally. It was fine 90% of the time, but once in a while would completely refuse to start the truck. Weirdest electrical issue I've ever had in a vehicle.
 

bigboychevy

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Heh.... Brake cleaner I think would work pretty well maybe? That's a pretty significant issue if the whole truck is dying tho. Somewhere is a loose connection.
Well I cleaned the ground wire and where it connected really well, but still getting that sound from the relays, it’s actually worse with the new relays it doesn’t stop buzzing. The old ones it would stop after a while, buzzing in between sometimes
 

bigboychevy

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Was about to post this but you beat me to it. This really sounds like a pretty major connection issue somewhere. I'd be checking battery cables closely.

Another random thought but OP says the battery is a "new high crank" type, it's not an Optima is it? I had an issue with one of them years ago where the positive side terminal had a short or crack internally. It was fine 90% of the time, but once in a while would completely refuse to start the truck. Weirdest electrical issue I've ever had in a vehicle.
It’s a Diehard 800 cranks
 

Erin

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Was about to post this but you beat me to it. This really sounds like a pretty major connection issue somewhere. I'd be checking battery cables closely.

Another random thought but OP says the battery is a "new high crank" type, it's not an Optima is it? I had an issue with one of them years ago where the positive side terminal had a short or crack internally. It was fine 90% of the time, but once in a while would completely refuse to start the truck. Weirdest electrical issue I've ever had in a vehicle.
^X2 on battery cables. My truck would randomly power down and then power back on. Turned out to be a corroded positive battery cable where it had been spliced before (unbeknownst to me). One day I just let in idle in the driveway and waited for it to kill, and saw smoke from under the hood. I cut the bad part out & spliced a piece of wire wire in there but that failed after a while also. New battery cable fixed it.
 

bigboychevy

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I think you guys are right about the battery cables. Ill get them replaced, how much does that cost for the cables and installation from a mechanic?
 

Erin

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I think you guys are right about the battery cables. Ill get them replaced, how much does that cost for the cables and installation from a mechanic?
Not sure on cost for a mechanic. I did it myself.
 

bigboychevy

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Heh.... Brake cleaner I think would work pretty well maybe? That's a pretty significant issue if the whole truck is dying tho. Somewhere is a loose connection.
Hey I was looking through the service manual and saw this where it says if the blower motor won’t engage in med or hi I should replace the blower switch and/or repair the “open in ORN 52 wire from resistor to blower switch” what’s your take on this??
 

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bigboychevy

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Applies to full-manual controls only... Not the electronic controller system.
Is there a ground wire under the bench seat? I noticed it wasn’t connected to anything, could it be related?
 

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