Engine replacement/rebuild recommendations

[rob249]

2. Before you buy a rebuilt engine--ESPECIALLY "mail-order" with no local representation--VERIFY the warranty terms.
Who is allowed to install the engine? You? A "certified" shop? Any professional shop?
What else has to be changed to validate the warranty? Radiator? Water pump? Injectors? Something more?
Who pays to remove a defective rebuilt engine? You? Them? Do they pay REAL shop rates, or do they pay 1970s shop rates? Do they cover fluids and filters?
Who pays to ship a defective rebuilt engine back to the rebuilder? You? Them? Do they pay realistic tranport fees?
If their engine is defective, who pays for your rental vehicle while yours is apart waiting for them to supply a replacement engine?
Who pays to diagnose problems with the rebuilt?
Who pays to do minor repairs to the rebuilt--resetting lifter preload, re-sealing a rear main, something that doesn't require returning the engine to the rebuilder? Do they pay realistic shop rates including "hazardous material" surcharges, and "shop supplies" that unethical shops tack-onto the bill to screw the customer?

These are all the things that worry me about an online motor, many of these online builders offer to good to be true warrenties(one claimed 7 year/100000 mile for a $1500 motor). I do have a certified mechanic buddy that could "be the installer" if anything is wrong with the motor, I also have another vehicle to drive. Even if I just had to pay return shipping though, that could add another $1000.

I sold a few ATK engines when I was at Oriellys

This statement alone says it all, ATK is out for sure.

1. Given feedback fuel injection, overdrive transmissions that cut down on RPM/mile traveled, and modern oil, a 250K mile engine may still have so little cylinder taper that re-ringing is entirely feasible. The Vortec short-block I ringed/bearinged/gasketed for my '88 had unknown miles. It came out because of a "rod knock" that turned out to be a broken flexplate. I even re-used the timing set, cam, lifters, and seven out of eight pistons and rods. (One cylinder bored .030 due to rainwater rusting the cylinder wall while the short-block was sitting.) All eight cylinders had only .0015 taper.

In my opinion you're wrong. Modern (and modernish) engines have better metal and machining and don't get the bore taper that was common on '60s blocks. Your only worry is if the block was seriously overheated. Have it magnafluxed before you build it.

This all sounds like my best bet is to put myself at the mercy of a good local builder, have them do a teardown and see whats going on.

 

[Just Nobody]

Ive been trying to chase down the source of a misfire on my 94' Yukon for a year, and its driving me crazy. Im probably going to take the drive of shame to a shop to figure it out, but at 250,000 miles, its probably time for a new motor. Ive basically ruled out anything simple as the cause of the miss, its very likely mechanical issue, probably bad rings on cylinder #8. Still cant find my compression tester, but im 99% sure im have low compression in that cylinder, based on the testing ive done. I may be wrong, but it seems to me that rebuilding heads, or re ringing a 250k motor is a waste of money. Its probably time to do a proper restore on the whole truck. Its been a solid daily driver and road tripper for years now, so i'd like to return it to its former glory.

Been looking at local engine builders and longblocks online, there is a broad range of prices for longblocks. Im quite happy with the OEM motor, so not looking for power adders, also need to pass emissions here. Buying a motor online is a pretty attractive, but I heard a lot of horror stories of people getting screwed on these. There are a couple well recommended engine builders here in Tucson, and a slew of unknown builders.

Looking at ATK engines, that'll be $2600 through jegs, which is a reman 2 bolt. A Blueprint runs $5000, which seems very pricey for a TBI motor, but its a 4bolt, steel crank, roller, new block. Being that I have mostly GMs, I havent had to replace a motor yet. I have a shop crane and all the tools, I also work at a freight company, so I can save on the residential delivery fees.

What kind of luck is everyone having with longblocks? What would be a fair price for a solid OEM type rebuild at a shop? Thanks all.

Look at GM parts engines,they were around $2900-3500 CND when I was looking for an engine. I rebuild the original for $1800 with parts from rock auto and had the machining done locally. I didn't care about 2 or 4 bolt mains, i wasn't building a racer, just a decent runner.

 

[rob249]

If you are talking about the GM Goodwrench motor, thats almost $4600. I dont think they make a 2 bolt replacement anymore.

ALL NEW ! GM 5.7L 350 L05 Gen 1 87-95 Truck Crate Engine 210HP - IN STOCK !

Check out the deal on ALL NEW ! GM 5.7L 350 L05 Gen 1 87-95 Truck Crate Engine 210HP - IN STOCK ! at GM Performance Motor

www.gmperformancemotor.com

I also dont care about 2 or 4 bolt, the stock motor served well.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Either save some money and get Jegs own 350 tbi rebuild over the ATK or open the wallet and get new GM which surprisingly says it is machined/assembled in the USA .https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19432778.html

That link shows a flat tappet engine for $4500?

I'd go with the 260HP Blue Print engine

TBI Truck 1987-1995 - GM SB Compatible 350 c.i. Engine - Long Block

BluePrint Engines 350 c.i. TBI small block truck 1987 -1995 GM style crate engine - dressed longblock. Includes 30 month / 50,000 warranty & BPE Dyno Promise. Part #: BP350TBICT

blueprintengines.com

 

[rob249]

I was looking at that Blueprint, it does say "not for pollution controlled vehicles". I have to do emissions every year.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I was looking at that Blueprint, it does say "not for pollution controlled vehicles". I have to do emissions every year.

Every year, or every 2 years? Anyway, that's more of a disclaimer to protect themselves, you can tune it to pass emissions in AZ, they're pretty lenient compared to CA. Or, you can get the Historic Plate and "Collector Car" insurance to make it exempt and register it every 5 years. That's what I did here in Maricopa County. YMMV

 

[rob249]

Every year, this is Pima county afterall. Last i checked, the collector car insurance and historic plate limits mileage to 15k a year, I do more like 20k.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Last i checked, the collector car insurance and historic plate limits mileage to 15k a year, I do more like 20k.

Not here, there's no mileage limitation but, there are rules to follow (see #2). MVD doesn't care, it's up to the insurance company. If you have more mileage than they think is acceptable, they can cancel your policy. They haven't asked for an odometer reading since I got the policy. When I took out this policy, I had it insured for $11K. I have been threatening to increase it to ~$20. I also have a folder with all of the packing slips/receipts for most everything I put on this truck.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[rob249]

Lol, thats great, but the collector car insurance isnt going to work for me. I hate going through emissions, but this is my DD, dont want to chance getting my policy cancelled and also having a vehicle that cant pass emissions.

 

[kavurider]

I am in almost the same boat. Bought a '93 Suburban without a motor, thinking it would be super easy to put a new one in - but the emissions requirement in Maricopa County is killing me.
It is super frustrating, I had no idea it would be this difficult. Very close to just selling the thing.