Engine cooling parts Suggestions

[Rex1]

97 k1500
Issue I’m having is it gets up to about 200 when in town but on highway it stays cool. That’s with the ac on

I need to change to radiator because it’s just old and a lot of funk inside of it. So I’ve been researching and leaning towards the dual flow while also replacing water pump to a high performance pump. Should I change the fan? If so what should I go with? Not sure if fan is electric or mechanical. Also thinking I should change out oil pump to a high performance as well to keep the oil pressure up when idling at a light with ac on. What brands do y’all suggest and what additional parts do y’all suggest. I just want this truck to last a long time. I don’t run it hard often but with any older truck it will have problems later down the road and I just want to be on top of it before they happen and cause damage.

 

[Darrell]

There are a couple threads on here in reference to cooling with dual fans. If you have a salvage yards near you and you and pick the pieces needed you can build one fairly cheap.

Electric fan swap, on the cheap

Electric Cooling Fan Conversion


You can also go this route which is the way I went but it will cost a little more since it's made specifically for these trucks. The Flex-A-Lite 280 kit allows you to get rid of the fan blade and clutch. My truck runs cool getting no higher than 160-170 in all traffic 24/7.

Flex-A-Lite 280: Dual Truck Fan - Puller Chevy/GMC 1992-99 ... - Jegs
https://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-A-Lite/400/280/10002/-1

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

This is what I put on my 88 - keeps it cool in 110* ambient.

https://www.radiatorexpress.com/Product/222481/1031106#vehiclefitmenttab
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-1675a
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bra-330-195

 

[454cid]

Probably just flush it out.

You don't need a new oil pump.

 

[alpinecrick]

If there is a cooling problem I don't think it is the radiator if it's not leaking. Both my 96 and 97 K1500's actually run bit cool at 190-195 with A/C on at altitude until I start climbing a pass and still run at 195 or a little over. I have this radiator on both of them: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-radiator-431334/19920074-P?searchTerm=radiator

Dex-Cool was a newish thing when the GMT 400's first came out. It is practically a given that at some point in these trucks life some well meaning owner (or mechanic) poured conventional green coolant into the Dex-Cool system. This creates a sludge. Bad ju-ju.

My suggestion is to flush with a flush kit. And watch the black sheit come out........

 

[Rex1]

Yeah I thought about flushing it but at the same time. I’m the kind of guy that likes new parts on a truck I just bought. Texas heat ain’t no joke and I’m thinking of upgrading the whole cooling system. Money isn’t the issue. I want quality. I didn’t know about the green coolant causing havoc thanks for that info. Electric fans give the truck it’s horsepower back so that’s definitely a must for me. I’m looking for a fan set up that both pushes and pulls air across the radiator. The oil pump I just want to change for the sake of not having to worry about it for the times that I am a bit rough on her. Even ya old guys like to get in the mud on occasion. Any additional parts y’all would recommend?

 

[kennythewelder]

The electric fan swap on the cheap, is my write up. If you just want a plug and play set up, then flex a lite is grate. A little on the loud side though. The DTS fans I used are very quite. They do grate in the south Louisiana heat, and not only a plus on power, but also a big help at idle for temp, and AC. All setups will pull air across the radiator, or if in front of the radiator, will push air through. I rather pull the air through with the fans on the engine side. Thats how these trucks were designed to operate. IMO, its just a better set up. You will gain the air flowing through the radiator at say 35PH plus as you drive down the road. There are no obstructions in the way in front of the radiator to disrupt air flow. Push fans, go in front of the radiator, so it is an obstruction some what. Pull fans can shut off at higher speeds. My DTS fans pull plenty enough air to keep everything nice and cool even on 100* heat, at idle for a long time. LOL like when you go to popeyes, and there are 10 people in the drive through all wanting for enough chicken to feed 20 people, and all you want is a 3 piece dinner.

 

[Vjcamp]

I live in Texas, D/FW area- yep very hot. Mine does fine with a stock Radiator, stock Fan Clutch and a Stock Thermostat

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

As long as my stock 5.7 vortec suburban has a full radiator, it runs just under 200 degrees at the most. And that's on 95 degree days we've been having, in traffic at the drive through. Stock radiator, 2 years old, stock water pump, 1 year old. I run Quaker State high mileage 10w40 in mine and it keeps good pressure. And I'm in Houston so l understand about Gulf Coast heat and humidity