Drop pitman and idler?

Ehall8702

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Anyone know where I can find a drop pitman and idler for 2.5-3" for my 97 GMC Sierra slt 2 door? Been searching for quite a while and can't find any. Have a diff drop coming and want to get the drop for the steering so I don't bind up.
 

Dylan Pope

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you dont need a drop pitman arm,if you drop the pitman arm it will do nothing but bind the idler arm.I have 3 inch keys,almost cranked all the way with extended upper control arms stock steering and no diff drop,truck rides and steers just fine.
 

Ehall8702

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As far as I can tell those are the only odd angles left to bind up. Haven't put the diff drop in yet , but trimmed my droop stops about an inch and have my keys most of the way up. Have longer shocks ordered since u can feel the shocks top out when the wheel drops. I put my truck on the hoist and with suspension completely slack I have no binding of anything , CV axles are still in good angles , ball joints are acceptable, and only thing that's close to an odd angles are tie rods which is my reason for asking about drop pitman and idler, since it will drop the "steering bar" down and alleviate the tie rod angles
 

Ehall8702

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you dont need a drop pitman arm,if you drop the pitman arm it will do nothing but bind the idler arm.I have 3 inch keys,almost cranked all the way with extended upper control arms stock steering and no diff drop,truck rides and steers just fine.

That's why I was asking about a drop idler AND pitman.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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I've never seen anyone even offer anything but a factory size/shape idler AND pitman arms for any SLA IFS vehicle.
Twin I beam Fords, sure...
Solid axle Jeep, definitely.

The reason is they would cause the centerlink to hit the lower control arms.

When a GM truck is lifted, the LCAs are lowered and a cavity is formed, and a fabricated extended centerlink is used. That way the OE idler and pitman are remain in the OE location, and the OE inner/outer tie rods stay basically in their factory angles (within reason)
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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As far as I can tell those are the only odd angles left to bind up. Haven't put the diff drop in yet , but trimmed my droop stops about an inch and have my keys most of the way up. Have longer shocks ordered since u can feel the shocks top out when the wheel drops. I put my truck on the hoist and with suspension completely slack I have no binding of anything , CV axles are still in good angles , ball joints are acceptable, and only thing that's close to an odd angles are tie rods which is my reason for asking about drop pitman and idler, since it will drop the "steering bar" down and alleviate the tie rod angles
I perform alignments at my job. Tie rod angles aren't the issue. Bump steer is not an issue with 3 or less inches of lift. The issue is gonna be the extreme balljoint angles.
Just 'cause you think they "look decent" doesn't mean anything. If you're not at OE z-height, they're at an extreme angle. The wear to be concerned with is the upper.

Tell me, do you have OE wheels? If not, you can flip the ball joint to the bottom of the UCA. It'll alleviate the angle, but you'll need to space the factory wheel out 2" or a set of 18" wheels (or larger).
 

Ehall8702

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I perform alignments at my job. Tie rod angles aren't the issue. Bump steer is not an issue with 3 or less inches of lift. The issue is gonna be the extreme balljoint angles.
Just 'cause you think they "look decent" doesn't mean anything. If you're not at OE z-height, they're at an extreme angle. The wear to be concerned with is the upper.

Tell me, do you have OE wheels? If not, you can flip the ball joint to the bottom of the UCA. It'll alleviate the angle, but you'll need to space the factory wheel out 2" or a set of 18" wheels (or larger).
I flipped upper ball joints but had to much camber , really haven't had any ball joint issues tho uppers are at a bit more angle than stock so I can see it being a problem, but haven't had any yet. Fortunately I can change upper ball joints in a few minutes , and I check and grease all my front end often too so that may help out with not having issues. There is about 2.5" lift with the torsion bars also, actually had to trim my bump stops so upper arms didn't hit when it bottomed out tho.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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I flipped upper ball joints but had to much camber , really haven't had any ball joint issues tho uppers are at a bit more angle than stock so I can see it being a problem, but haven't had any yet. Fortunately I can change upper ball joints in a few minutes , and I check and grease all my front end often too so that may help out with not having issues. There is about 2.5" lift with the torsion bars also, actually had to trim my bump stops so upper arms didn't hit when it bottomed out tho.

I'm confused, or you are... The bump stops dont go anywhere near the upper A-Arms. The bump stops are mounted UNDER the frame, near the torsion bar socket, above the lower A-Arm.

Wait, you cranked the bars all the way up, hit the frame stops, flipped the ball joints, cranked higher, and still hit the frame, so you cut a recess in the frame?
I assume you mean you cut the frame extensions above the sway bar link?

You shouldn't have. If the UCA hits that, your ride height is WAY TOO HIGH. Lower it back down.
 
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