I have rebuilt hundreds of hinges going back to the square body days. The only special tool needed is the spring compressor. You can tap the ends of the pins to get them started. I then use a Stanley Wonder Bar that I have modified by using a die grinder to make the nail slot fit the hinge pin. . Some grinding on the side of the bar to make it narrower could also help. Hit the bar with a hammer to drive the pin out, bottom pin always first. Don't use the bar as a prybar.
If the pins have the factory retainers, ignore them they will break off when you drive out the pins. With the age of these trucks, it would be best to look to see if someone rebuilt the hinge and put a tack weld at the end of the pin to keep it from walking out and grind off the tack weld. They will walk out no matter which way they are pointing, up or down.
I have a jack I made just for supporting doors so I don't unhook ay wires but you can use a floor jack, block of wood and a pad to hold the door up. It is far easier to have someone balance the door on the jack while you work. There should be enough slack in the wires to move the door out a little to give you room to work. watch that the door doesn't hit the fender.
I have had the best luck with GM bushings, the aftermarket were good years ago but now are not. You will not know which bushings you need until you get the door apart. I keep drawers full of various sizes but I suggest ordering by application and ordering extra oversized ones. You might not be able to return the ones you don't need because of GM'S return policy.
If the dealer does take them back they will probably eat them or know they can resell them.
You need to analyze every hole to see of it is round. Drill bits never make round holes, I use a couple sizes of rat tail files and clean up the holes. The hinges have stamped holes and always seem to have a bit of a rolled over edge that needs cleaning up. When you have the right size hole the bushings should be a slight press fit, I tap them in with a wooden hammer handle. If you can take them back out they are too loose. Over time you learn how to guage the tightness, if you are forcing the bushing in it will break, Learn from it and do better. You did buy extras, right? I've broke many but not lately.
If the hole is oblong or oversize you may be able to file it to fit the oversize bushing. These bushing have a "serated" edge where the touch the hinge. In severe cases I have welded the hinge hole, drilled it small and filed it to fit a standard bushing. More severe cases need a hinge replacement, which is no fun.
I check the roller with the spring out and always replace it if there is any doubt. Fix it once fix it right. I don't have a good way to restake the roller pin so I weld it to retain it.
The GM set I installed on my 89 in January had E clips to hold the pins in, I have another set I would be putting on an 88 if the virus hadn't put the project on hold. I have not looked to see what the retainers were. I have seen the round push-on factory style retainers and have even had to do tack welds like I mentioned above. If you fail to retain the pins, they will walk. The serrations under the head of the pin never seem to hold the pin in. GM added retaining clips so there must be a reason to need them.
I'm a painter so I always refinish the hinge if I welder or scratched it, you may not have the option, at least use an aerosol or brush to get some color paint over any bare metal.
Strive for perfecton, a small amount of movement at the pins becomes a lot at the back of the door. Not only will sag wear your striker and latch, it just feels and sounds bad when you close the door. I can have a nice truck and if the door sags when opened and climbs the striker when closing, it makes the truck seem like a beater. A door will never wear better, it will only get worse. The driver's door is the first and last thing you touch every time you use the truck, get it right and you will always be happy with it.
If the pins have the factory retainers, ignore them they will break off when you drive out the pins. With the age of these trucks, it would be best to look to see if someone rebuilt the hinge and put a tack weld at the end of the pin to keep it from walking out and grind off the tack weld. They will walk out no matter which way they are pointing, up or down.
I have a jack I made just for supporting doors so I don't unhook ay wires but you can use a floor jack, block of wood and a pad to hold the door up. It is far easier to have someone balance the door on the jack while you work. There should be enough slack in the wires to move the door out a little to give you room to work. watch that the door doesn't hit the fender.
I have had the best luck with GM bushings, the aftermarket were good years ago but now are not. You will not know which bushings you need until you get the door apart. I keep drawers full of various sizes but I suggest ordering by application and ordering extra oversized ones. You might not be able to return the ones you don't need because of GM'S return policy.
If the dealer does take them back they will probably eat them or know they can resell them.
You need to analyze every hole to see of it is round. Drill bits never make round holes, I use a couple sizes of rat tail files and clean up the holes. The hinges have stamped holes and always seem to have a bit of a rolled over edge that needs cleaning up. When you have the right size hole the bushings should be a slight press fit, I tap them in with a wooden hammer handle. If you can take them back out they are too loose. Over time you learn how to guage the tightness, if you are forcing the bushing in it will break, Learn from it and do better. You did buy extras, right? I've broke many but not lately.
If the hole is oblong or oversize you may be able to file it to fit the oversize bushing. These bushing have a "serated" edge where the touch the hinge. In severe cases I have welded the hinge hole, drilled it small and filed it to fit a standard bushing. More severe cases need a hinge replacement, which is no fun.
I check the roller with the spring out and always replace it if there is any doubt. Fix it once fix it right. I don't have a good way to restake the roller pin so I weld it to retain it.
The GM set I installed on my 89 in January had E clips to hold the pins in, I have another set I would be putting on an 88 if the virus hadn't put the project on hold. I have not looked to see what the retainers were. I have seen the round push-on factory style retainers and have even had to do tack welds like I mentioned above. If you fail to retain the pins, they will walk. The serrations under the head of the pin never seem to hold the pin in. GM added retaining clips so there must be a reason to need them.
I'm a painter so I always refinish the hinge if I welder or scratched it, you may not have the option, at least use an aerosol or brush to get some color paint over any bare metal.
Strive for perfecton, a small amount of movement at the pins becomes a lot at the back of the door. Not only will sag wear your striker and latch, it just feels and sounds bad when you close the door. I can have a nice truck and if the door sags when opened and climbs the striker when closing, it makes the truck seem like a beater. A door will never wear better, it will only get worse. The driver's door is the first and last thing you touch every time you use the truck, get it right and you will always be happy with it.
