What year? What vehicle? Pickup? Extended-cab? Suburban?
I need to do a maintenance on the wiring systems from distributor to spark plug.
There's a hundred resellers peddling Chinese TBI distributors. "Good luck" with any of them.
When it's me, I put a new mainshaft and pickup coil into a Genuine GM core distributor housing that has good bushings. The used GM module is as good, probably better than the brand-new Chinese replacements.
Any brand of helically-wound plug wires is fine. I don't especially like carbon-rope plug wires but it's not that they don't perform well, it's that they have a shorter service life than the helical-metal-wire wires. My preference is the Summit house-brand, in whatever color appeals to you (blue, red, black, maybe others.) I get the kind that has the spark plug end factory installed, so that the wire can be cut-to-fit on the distributor end for perfect routing. (Follow the service-manual routing exactly, ESPECIALLY for #5 and #7.) The sets include a crimping tool, and the distributor ends and boots. You'll need some dielectric silicone grease to make the boots slide easier.
For example:
www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-860825r
Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ 8mm Ignition Wires with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Spark Plug Wire Sets at Summit Racing.
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I will eventually change all my exhaust system from headers to muffler
The OEM system is durable stainless steel. Almost all aftermarket systems are crappy "aluminized (mild) steel" which is not especially durable.
Either spend extra for a stainless steel exhaust system, or save as much of the original system tubing as practical, replace only what is essential. Headers, Y-pipe, catalyst(s) and muffler, for example--keep the tailpipe(s) and as much of the rest of the tubing as practical. The original catalyst is almost certainly defective by now. Modern, honeycomb "monolithic" cats flow better than the early GM "pellet-style" anyway.
and also make some mods on the intake, air and fuel ....etc.
Largely a waste of time, money, effort, and enthusiasm. Replace what's worn-out with some upgraded parts--the fuel pump comes to mind. Then just make sure the rest of it is in good condition and everything works like it's supposed to.
Verify fuel pressure at idle, and under load. Ideally, the fuel pressure can be adjusted to be at the high-end of the allowed range--9 to 13 psi.
Connect a scan tool, verify no "codes" and that all the sensors work like they should. There's a really-good chance the O2 sensor has failed--gotten "lazy" with age. Assure that the spark advance, EGR, etc. works.
what is your recommendation for add performance with a new distributor, wiring and spark plug.
There's no performance to be gained by spending money on the distributor, plug wiring, or spark plugs unless you're fixing something that's worn-out or has failed. The stock system is perfectly adequate but has no "romance" or "hot-rod" value so folks waste money getting rid of perfectly-adequate parts so they can install junk molded in red plastic made in China.
There's power to be gained by having someone "tune" the computer, though. That would not be me.
I have also read something about a salad bowl...to install on the TBI.
Hood clearance could be a problem, as well as cold-weather operation due to probably disabling the heated-air intake system of the stock air cleaner housing.
And for nothing, really.
Power isn't limited by the air-cleaner air flow, or even the TBI air flow. The power is limited by the crappy cylinder heads, restrictive exhaust, ultra-mild camshaft, and compromised spark and fuel tuning of the computer program.
REPAIRS are needed, but "performance upgrades" to the ignition system and most of the fuel system are wasted because there's little wrong with the stock stuff IF it's working properly. Take all the money you'd have blown screwing with the ignition system, and the air-intake system, and put it towards better cylinder heads.
Does someone as a list of waht we can do to add more power (except change for another motor) on that TBI engine....?
FIX WHATEVER IS BROKEN/WORN-OUT/DEFECTIVE so the engine runs "right" while keeping in mind:
Better exhaust
Cylinder heads
Maybe a camshaft/lifters (roller cam?)
Computer tuning
Assure that the radiator and AC condenser are clean, the rubber parts--accessory belt, PS hoses, radiator and heater hoses, etc.--are in good condition.
HOWEVER, before you do anything but basic repairs/tune-up services on the engine, you'd better have a look at the brakes/steering/suspension. Doesn't matter how fast the truck "goes" if it won't stop and turn safely.
The steering "rag joint" is practically guaranteed to be wiped-out, as are the control arm bushings. Maybe the ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, calipers and wheel cylinders. The entire suspension should be inspected. Most 1500s have crappy rear brakes,
early 1500 regualr-cabs have tiny master cylinders and power boosters along with tiny front caliper pistons.
In other words...aside from replacing failed engine parts, you should be focusing on the safety-critical items first.
