Disconnecting slave from clutch line?

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movietvet

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There are punches that are made to use for roll pins, that have a little nub in the center to set inside the hollow roll pin center and keep it centered up and the outer diameter does it's job as you drive the roll pin out. You can also use the correct diameter regular punch to drive it out of there. When you do get enough of the roll pin punched out, you can grab the other side, that is protruding out, and twist it out of there with a pair of vise grips. But, if you do that, the pin can get damaged and then cannot reuse the roll pin.

A nail can get it started but it will likely damage the roll pin.
 

jbason_01

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There are punches that are made to use for roll pins, that have a little nub in the center to set inside the hollow roll pin center and keep it centered up and the outer diameter does it's job as you drive the roll pin out. You can also use the correct diameter regular punch to drive it out of there. When you do get enough of the roll pin punched out, you can grab the other side, that is protruding out, and twist it out of there with a pair of vise grips. But, if you do that, the pin can get damaged and then cannot reuse the roll pin.

A nail can get it started but it will likely damage the roll pin.
Heard that. Thanks for the info
 

jbason_01

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There are punches that are made to use for roll pins, that have a little nub in the center to set inside the hollow roll pin center and keep it centered up and the outer diameter does it's job as you drive the roll pin out. You can also use the correct diameter regular punch to drive it out of there. When you do get enough of the roll pin punched out, you can grab the other side, that is protruding out, and twist it out of there with a pair of vise grips. But, if you do that, the pin can get damaged and then cannot reuse the roll pin.

A nail can get it started but it will likely damage the roll pin.
Roll pin came out easy. There is 1 rubber seal that doesn’t seem to be cracked or dry rotted. Can I find this seal at a parts store easily? Also, is there a seal missing in the channel closest to the clutch line or is that for the roll pin to fit into?
 

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someotherguy

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Roll pin came out easy. There is 1 rubber seal that doesn’t seem to be cracked or dry rotted. Can I find this seal at a parts store easily? Also, is there a seal missing in the channel closest to the clutch line or is that for the roll pin to fit into?
Is that not the same seal that came in the kit? Looks the same style.

Yes, one of the gaps between the landings on the fitting is for the roll pin to retain it.

Richard
 

slowfivespeed

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Fair warning on that style: I went through two or three slaves and lines of varying brands with continual problems with air developing in the line, seals failing, etc. If you switch over to the pre 94 master/slave system, you get proper flared steel lines and a real bleeder valve on the slave, not the weird allen key bleeder. Bleeding takes a quarter of the time and a quarter of the fluid needed. I think the pedal feels better too. YMMV but if you have issues going forward, keep that in mind.
 

jbason_01

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Fair warning on that style: I went through two or three slaves and lines of varying brands with continual problems with air developing in the line, seals failing, etc. If you switch over to the pre 94 master/slave system, you get proper flared steel lines and a real bleeder valve on the slave, not the weird allen key bleeder. Bleeding takes a quarter of the time and a quarter of the fluid needed. I think the pedal feels better too. YMMV but if you have issues going forward, keep that in mind.
Thanks for the tips. I got the new slave in Saturday and had no issues bleeding. I loosened the master bleeder and put a hose from the bleeder back into the master resivoir (LOL) and used gravity while pumping the slave to get all the bubbles out. 20-30 pumps of the slave truck is good as new. Closed bleeder and now it’s ready for sale lol. Never touched the Allen set screw as I read somewhere it’s for the piston in the slave. Didn’t know it’s actually a bleeder
 

someotherguy

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Fair warning on that style: I went through two or three slaves and lines of varying brands with continual problems with air developing in the line, seals failing, etc. If you switch over to the pre 94 master/slave system, you get proper flared steel lines and a real bleeder valve on the slave, not the weird allen key bleeder. Bleeding takes a quarter of the time and a quarter of the fluid needed. I think the pedal feels better too. YMMV but if you have issues going forward, keep that in mind.
Interesting.. I'd never paid attention there was more than one design prior to the 96-up total redesign. So, I looked 'em up.. the year range is 1992-1995 for the style with the allen screw. You got me thinking because I ordered spec'ing a 1993 for my C3500 and it had the allen screw, not the regular bleeder. Apparently the regular bleeder screw style is 1988-1991.

1988-1991: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1404329&cc=1031184&pt=2044&jsn=544

1992-1995: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1404661&cc=1031331&pt=2044&jsn=560

Richard
 

slowfivespeed

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@someotherguy Ah yes that's correct. I don't recall who gave me that tidbit of advice, but I do remember going through the same process that you just did to get all the parts. Another bonus is the fluid reservoir is larger on the master and has a nice screw on cap instead of the rubber press on cap.
 

someotherguy

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@someotherguy Ah yes that's correct. I don't recall who gave me that tidbit of advice, but I do remember going through the same process that you just did to get all the parts. Another bonus is the fluid reservoir is larger on the master and has a nice screw on cap instead of the rubber press on cap.
Looks like it depends on which brand you choose. Several I see listed are the same design with the small cup-shaped reservoir and the rubber cap, though it's a different part # than the 1992-1995 offerings. A couple brands have the larger rectangular white plastic reservoir with the screw cap. (Perfection and Dorman)

Richard
 
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