Depinning the Fan Blower Switch?

[Supercharged111]

My blower motor quit working entirely in my 1500. I was horsing with the blower switch and figured I just killed it, it had been on the fritz here and there recently so I grabbed a couple HVAC panels from the pull and pay rather than fork over $170 for a new one. Good thing I did! That wasn't the problem. My plug is nuked, this is the power into the thing.

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So I guess I get to go back for a not burned up plug tomorrow, but I'd prefer to depin/repin the good ones. I'm having trouble seeing into the thing. I already removed the clip from the back and shoved a little ground down paper clip down the slot that usually gets it, but I'm not having any luck. I know the coil plug wires can't be depinned on TBI trucks, but I don't think that applies here.

 

[AK49BWL]

Stick a pin in the connector, then bend the pin away from the terminal you're trying to release (so you're levering on the connector body in the middle of it), this bends the terminal keeper so you can pull the wire out of the back of the connector. Then bend that keeper back out so it'll seat in the new connector. Then replace your blower motor because it's pulling way too much current, causing the melted connector. If the terminals won't release, the connector is probably too melted to let go.

 

[Supercharged111]

I ended up pushing a paper clip down the front on a good connector to get a feel for it and popped them all out but that melted one. Soldered a replacement junkyard wire on, snapped the wires into a fresh connector, and everything is working again.

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You'll have to use your imagination to picture it installed. If the blower motor was pulling too hard, I imagine it was because it was lacking lube? I had it out recently and it seemed fine. It squealed when cold, so I put a dab of ATF on the easy to reach bushing and it's been quiet since.

 

[GoToGuy]

In the service manual under electrical, it has drawings showing connectors. Releasing pins, installing pins, replacing pins and seals. Common in eng compartment are weatherpak insert, push to seat. The other are pull to seat. Each uses a different release tool.

 

[CrustyJunker]

Good save on the plastic connector! I've fought the same switch end and blower motor connectors on my '95-'98 trucks.

I bought a new Siemens blower motor some years ago. It pulled more oomph than my factory ones did on startup. In turn, it was also noisier and ended up scorching a high speed relay and melting the fan switch connector again.

Strangers on the internet had said there's a ground under the dash that can come loose and cause this kind of havoc...But I haven't found such a case yet? I dunno.

 

[AK49BWL]

Good save on the plastic connector! I've fought the same switch end and blower motor connectors on my '95-'98 trucks.

I bought a new Siemens blower motor some years ago. It pulled more oomph than my factory ones did on startup. In turn, it was also noisier and ended up scorching a high speed relay and melting the fan switch connector again.

Strangers on the internet had said there's a ground under the dash that can come loose and cause this kind of havoc...But I haven't found such a case yet? I dunno.

The only ground that's important in this case is one on the right side of the engine, because that's where the blower motor grounds. Which is stupid IMO. When I did my truck rewire, I grounded my blower motor to the body right next to it with 12-gauge wire. Factory is 14 or 16-gauge, not big enough for my liking.

 

[Supercharged111]

In the service manual under electrical, it has drawings showing connectors. Releasing pins, installing pins, replacing pins and seals. Common in eng compartment are weatherpak insert, push to seat. The other are pull to seat. Each uses a different release tool.

I think this is pull to seat?

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I'd rather repin this guy, but pretty sure it's unpossible. Coil connector for my LT1. A replacement that is.

 

[east302]

I ended up pushing a paper clip down the front on a good connector to get a feel for it and popped them all out but that melted one. Soldered a replacement junkyard wire on, snapped the wires into a fresh connector, and everything is working again.

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You'll have to use your imagination to picture it installed. If the blower motor was pulling too hard, I imagine it was because it was lacking lube? I had it out recently and it seemed fine. It squealed when cold, so I put a dab of ATF on the easy to reach bushing and it's been quiet since.

Another cause (in my case) was a leaking cowl vent screw dripping water into the blower housing. Blower motor shaft rusted, fan struggled, connector eventually melted.

Amazon has a ten-pack of the connectors without the blue retainers though Delco sells a kit (PT2372) for a bit more money.

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[Supercharged111]

I really need to get more spun up on the connectors GM used. I probably could have just crimped a new pin onto the original wire rather than soldering in a replacement section

 

[AK49BWL]

I really need to get more spun up on the connectors GM used. I probably could have just crimped a new pin onto the original wire rather than soldering in a replacement section

For that connector you need Metri-Pack 280 unsealed terminals. Mouser sells them in bulk or by singles, for example: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/12129493-L?qs=DlE0rdXB/L3abzdZeQpqSw== -- AND they sell the 8-pin connectors with the TPA clips: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/12064998?qs=xyz6lfZ1ktLEuGIVZ4xQ5A== ... Cheaper than Amazon lol. I have a couple little tray organizers full of Metri-Pack, WeatherPack and GT terminals (used in later model trucks). They come in handy when you're rewiring an entire truck lol.