CV axle

[Feral peasant]

If stuff goes to plan I'll be doing my CV axle and wheel speed sensor next week, I bought the AcDelco Wheel speed sensor and Duralast gold CV axle for the 8.6K weight. I've already messed with the side that the CV axle is going on, rotor and hub assembly, wanted to know if there's any special tools I'll need to buy/loan and what to expect for doing the job. What should I look at while I'm down there ECT

 

[Schurkey]

Kinda guessing you'll ruin the sway-bar end links getting the CV axle out of the truck.

Expect to pop the upper ball joint stud out of the tapered hole in the steering knuckle. You could pop the lower ball joint stud, but it's more work.

If you need to replace ball joints anyway, remove the brake caliper, disconnect the ABS wires by the frame, pop both ball joint studs out of the steering knuckle, and then the CV shaft is a piece o' cake.

 

[Feral peasant]

Kinda guessing you'll ruin the sway-bar end links getting the CV axle out of the truck.

Expect to pop the upper ball joint stud out of the tapered hole in the steering knuckle. You could pop the lower ball joint stud, but it's more work.

If you need to replace ball joints anyway, remove the brake caliper, disconnect the ABS wires by the frame, pop both ball joint studs out of the steering knuckle, and then the CV shaft is a piece o' cake.

I probably do need ball joints they look really bad, is there a brand I should go for or is the grease fitting ball joints at the auto part store worth it. I mean longevity (2+years) would be nice but not required ATM

 

[Schurkey]

I tend to buy Moog. Others will suggest other brands such as Mevotech. Be sure you get the correct ball joints to suit your control arm--there's three styles of lower arms for K-trucks. I don't know about C-trucks.

The newer Moog joints may have a nearly-invisible "boot" unlike the original joints. Be sure you install the joint so the vent on the boot is inboard, away from the brake rotor.


Rent the ball-joint press from the loaner-tools section of your parts store.

If you're removing the steering knuckle, you might as well remove the upper control arm AT MINIMUM to replace the upper control arm bushings which are nearly-guaranteed to be totally destroyed. Replacing the entire upper arm is an option. If you want to install Polyurethane bushing inserts, you'll probably need to fabricate the inner steel sleeves.

Lower control arm bushings will probably be wiped-out, but if you do replace 'em with Poly, the inserts come with new inner steel sleeves, you re-use only the outer shells.

 

[Feral peasant]

I tend to buy Moog. Others will suggest other brands such as Mevotech. Be sure you get the correct ball joints to suit your control arm--there's three styles of lower arms for K-trucks. I don't know about C-trucks.

The newer Moog joints may have a nearly-invisible "boot" unlike the original joints. Be sure you install the joint so the vent on the boot is inboard, away from the brake rotor.


Rent the ball-joint press from the loaner-tools section of your parts store.

If you're removing the steering knuckle, you might as well remove the upper control arm AT MINIMUM to replace the upper control arm bushings which are nearly-guaranteed to be totally destroyed. Replacing the entire upper arm is an option. If you want to install Polyurethane bushing inserts, you'll probably need to fabricate the inner steel sleeves.

Lower control arm bushings will probably be wiped-out, but if you do replace 'em with Poly, the inserts come with new inner steel sleeves, you re-use only the outer shells.

So from what I seen these are what I need, I have some problems no idea what but these are a little expensive for whats going on with my vehicle, but I might look at my part store see what they have since I can get commercial or at least 20% off the store ones

 

[Schurkey]

The downside to OEM-style rubber bushings is that you need a press, (hydraulic or screw-type) and some special tooling to push the old ones out, and the new ones in--and without distorting the control arm in the process.

And of course, with bonded-rubber bushings, the control arms must be torqued with the suspension at normal ride-height.

I'll never install bonded-rubber bushings if I can get Polyurethane replacements...but I've already discussed the downside with them.

 

[Feral peasant]

The downside to OEM-style rubber bushings is that you need a press, (hydraulic or screw-type) and some special tooling to push the old ones out, and the new ones in--and without distorting the control arm in the process.

And of course, with bonded-rubber bushings, the control arms must be torqued with the suspension at normal ride-height.

I'll never install bonded-rubber bushings if I can get Polyurethane replacements...but I've already discussed the downside with them.

Yeah I can rent the ball joints press, like I said above I've had some weird problems with my vehicle so I don't want to drop $200+ on some bushing and stuff, they'd probably be the best thing on the vehicle lol, I can't fab anything tbh. I've been looking on rock auto for the front end kit only problem is some of them don't specify if they're the 7.2k gvw or 8.6k gvw

 

[Feral peasant]

The downside to OEM-style rubber bushings is that you need a press, (hydraulic or screw-type) and some special tooling to push the old ones out, and the new ones in--and without distorting the control arm in the process.

And of course, with bonded-rubber bushings, the control arms must be torqued with the suspension at normal ride-height.

I'll never install bonded-rubber bushings if I can get Polyurethane replacements...but I've already discussed the downside with them.

I have every little experience in suspension I can name a few parts off looks but that's about it so I'm just trying to figure out what parts I should be getting

 

[Schurkey]

Everyone starts out not knowing what they need to.

Ideally, you'd find a local mentor to help you along. This stuff is safety-critical; you don't want to screw this up.