Custom Switch Panel for 95+ trucks

[MrPink]

I know that there are some of you that were curious how I built my switch panel. It is relatively simple as far as build goes. It is a Metra single din radio kit, a switch panel from Amazon, and some new switches. I have roughly $150 into it as I had most of the parts from various other things over the years.

Switch Panel: www.amazon.com/dp/B07PRHLMTC?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Starter Switch(Moroso): www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74120
Battery Switch(Hella): www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-002843011
SPST switches(3x)(Carling): www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-WeatherDeck-Toggle/dp/B000MMFIZS?th=1
Dust Covers(2x): www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSW-20-Electrical-Resistant/dp/B000BVXWFI/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B000BVXWFI&th=1

I took the Metra kit used JB weld to make sure that the 2pc was 1 solid piece and sanded it smooth, primed and painted it. Then I took the panel and had to trim a bit to get the 100A battery switch to fit, as the crappy switches that came with it were just that, crap. I drilled 4 holes total for the screws to attach to, but I also used gorilla glue.

The nomenclature plate that is beneath my HVAC controls is the mounting plate for my Bluetooth receiver that feeds 100w to all 4 speakers. I have had the nomenclature plate for years sitting in my electrical tool box, why not use it, lol.

Wiring it is pretty simple also, I jumped the feed wires from the one side of the battery switch to the start switch, then the 3 switches. The light grounds are all on a separate wire. And the light positives are attached to the power outputs for each of the 3 switches. With the 4th light above the push start being on when the battery switch is on. The "in cab" battery switch will be a secondary redundant switch, as the main cut off will be inline for the battery on the ground side. But my battery will be in the bed mounted in a weatherproof container aka an old steel belted cooler with weather strip added, the on-off switch will be in the rear by the license plate.

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[Erik the Awful]

A word to the wise - the battery disconnect Mr. Pink has there is what I would consider a minimum spec. It's a trusted brand and it says it can handle 1000 surge amps (starter draw) and 100 continuous amps. If you have an alternator that puts out more than 100 amps (i.e. you're not building a drag-only truck), you'll likely want one that can handle 200 amps continuous. If you're in stereo competitions, you're looking at even higher-end disconnect switches.

You absolutely will melt a lesser switch. Ask me how I know.