Custom made shop tools

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east302

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Aligning the shaft within the body is easy - a gear tooth out is obvious from a marker pen mark. Providing the body can be re-installed accurately . By everything I've read - there is no overthinking this if a scan tool isn't at hand.

Provided that the crank isn’t turned in the interim (and there isn’t any reason that it would), it’s easy to stab the thing back and have the rotor end up where it started. The rotor will turn clockwise as it seats.

The hard part is getting back there to turn the oil pump shaft to make it line up with the distributor. Trial and error.

You’ll know when it’s right - the distributor will otherwise seat about 1/8” shy of flush with the manifold.

I will say you’ll probably need some scanner to get that CMP Retard set. Lacking that, try a Bluetooth OBD adapter ($40-or so) and DashCommand or CarGaugePro apps.


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Pinger

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Provided that the crank isn’t turned in the interim (and there isn’t any reason that it would), it’s easy to stab the thing back and have the rotor end up where it started. The rotor will turn clockwise as it seats.

Set the crank to TDC cyl #1 firing and don't intend turning the crank.

The hard part is getting back there to turn the oil pump shaft to make it line up with the distributor. Trial and error.

You’ll know when it’s right - the distributor will otherwise seat about 1/8” shy of flush with the manifold.

It dropped back in nice when I tried.

I will say you’ll probably need some scanner to get that CMP Retard set. Lacking that, try a Bluetooth OBD adapter ($40-or so) and DashCommand or CarGaugePro apps.


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Hopefully my tool will eliminate the need. Even if there's 0.5mm slop, that's only 0.6 degrees.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Pinger

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More custom tools.
Took the handles from a strimmer (weedwacker) that had donated its engine to science and adapted them to become handles for my inlet manifold. Makes re-fitting the manifold a whole lot easier - that and removing the front wheels and dropping the front on jacks until the rotors are just a few inches above the ground.
Only a dry run but I can walk up to it and fit the manifold pretty easily - I wasn't certain before that I could at all . Doesn't drop straight down vertically though. Snags on the oil pressure sensor when I try that.


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HotWheelsBurban

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Now that's what I call "recycling "!
I remember working on my old 3/4 ton square Burb; it was pretty tall too. Needed a plastic milk crate to stand on to get underhood. I also had a folding plastic step stool ( bought it from an RV supply, but Walmart has them now) and that worked too. I could slide under it for oil changes though, no jacking required!
 

Pinger

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And another custom tool.
Assuming your coolant quick fit connector came out in one piece (and you are replacing it - cut the end (threadless bit) off of it and some slots. Punch a taper in its end to expand it a touch and use it to chase the thread on the manifold for the EGR pipe.
(Photo is before I expanded it).

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