All that set screw does is prevent the shaft from pulling out, which it doesn't see those types of forces normally driving. The reason the stock has a bolt is because its split, and requires clamping pressure. You could literally drive without it on the new joint.
The steering joints have used allens as long as I can remember, none of this is new. Same stuff been used in hot rods for a long time. No problems. They don't use a regular bolt, so there is less hanging out to catch on things
As I appreciate your explanation, I am fully aware of the entire concept of how the stock is built, and how the Allen screws work etc etc ..
The clamp force with an OEM shaft in addition to splines is all the more superior over just relying on 360* of splines ( Not able to clamp) and hoping those splines are machined exactly as the gear shaft without enough slop so that joint doesn’t slip / or round of past each other while mated.
I don’t see or feel an issue as such wil happen , but it’s a plausible analogy. So it’s still imo unjustifiable for a steering component to use a set screw ! Mfgrs could and should afford to add some revamp in that department. A set screw isn’t reliable in the long term , especially with the aggravation with potential stripping out the Allen , rusting and rounding over inside the hex . Even if they keep the U-joint design the way it is a true hex bolt is better. I still find my bolt swap a safer superior addition to the part. I mean if I had to do it over again , I would go back to a new rag joint. The amount of fix a U-joint offers is 5-10% over stock slop . The real culprit is the gear boxes 9-10 times . 12:7:1 quick ratio box fixes 90% of the steering Wander.
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