cranking 2"

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6chevy9

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tell her everytime she complains your gona lift it even higher lol. yeah if you plan to do a 6 inch kit down the road i wouldnt even bother with the 4....thats just throwing away money at that point IMO. id do BL and when you get your 6 it will be a monster!
 

jcro61

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tell her everytime she complains your gona lift it even higher lol. yeah if you plan to do a 6 inch kit down the road i wouldnt even bother with the 4....thats just throwing away money at that point IMO. id do BL and when you get your 6 it will be a monster!

from what i understand the rough country 4 is the same as the 6 but it doesnt contain the aal or something along those lines. I dig the look of the 9 inch lift with 36's. But to do so would require regearing. So that will have to wait until this truck isn't a dd anymore again.
 

Excessive

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my stock keys are tweeked on 33 1250s but i hate it. i will measure them up tomorrow for you. to excessive... how do you suppose you get any lift out of keys going by your theroy? from my understanding they twist the bars to get you lifted, aftermarket keys must twist harder to get you higher, i dont see how it would work anyother way...but im not 100% so prove me wrong if thats your thought! all i know is your control arm bushings get put together at ride height, so those are going to get tore up fast because your control arms are now going to be stuck at their max travel and if not either way they will be past your ride height where they were set. it just throws off everything. i wouldnt say so many bad things about them if i didnt get affected by them. ill post the pics of my s10 that got screwed over by aftermarket keys and you can clearly see that it had hardley any lift over stock height. jcro61 ill measure my fender height tomorrow for you! do what youd like to your truck but i wouldnt mess with the keys very much.

Yeah i understand where your coming from, i don't really know how its supposed to lift the truck without twisting the bars either. Im just going by what i read on Tuff Country's website. They all seem to say the same thing about getting lift without 'cranking up' the bars, but you know what websites are like, they'll write anything to sell a product.
 

6chevy9

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yeah thats for sure lol. well its just everytime i hear somone say they are going to get their truck keyed up i drop what im doing and tell them straight up that its just not the best idea they could possibly have, and the only reason i do it is because not one person warned me when i got the s10 done and i wish they would have. i really wanted a BL but doing the keys and shacles in the back was just a little bit cheaper and thats the only reason i went that route. and this was a very nice truck too! it was the first nice truck i ever had actually. i bought it right out of hs for 14 grand and it had 23k on it. after about 50k i did the lift after having the ball joints replaced under dealer warrenty. i got to 55k and the ball joints were gone and the cv shafts were clicking because the boots wouldnt stay on and they ended up ripping after i made them stay on. and i didnt even change the rims or tires from stock at this point, so there was no extra stress on anything aside from those keys, needless to say i got very sick of everything, crappy ride, parts all broken, not being able to off road at all, or even get the rims and tires i wanted. so dissapointed i actually traded it in at 57k and i loved this truck it wasnt easy...although hoping in a nnbs 07 silverado at age 19 with no co signer this time helped the situation lol, i was still happy only having an s10. so thats my story and why i tell everyone!
 

jcro61

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When I had my Blazer cranking was like no big deal on all the s10 forums. Now on the full size forums everyone is very against it. funny the difference
 

Giiventofly

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cranking stock keys or adding new keys is the same thing. All aftermarket keys do is re-index it so that you can crank even further. It puts the same exact stress on everything, depending on how high you go. I'm cranked pretty decent and have had no issues so far.
 

6chevy9

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idk i seemed to have more of a problem with the light truck i guess, the reason i think that was is because it was so light i dont think it had the weight to really twist those bars anymore and everything else gave out before the bars would twist. i mean i could hit a decent sized bump and like i said it was like no sus and would take the wheels right off the ground. and no i didnt have that much crank on it, as a matter of fact the keys were put in and had like a half turn on the bolts. as far as cranking even further...how does that not twist those bars even more? it has to put more stress on everything because there is more tension in those bars, they are spring steel there is only so much they can twist. its like completly bottoming out you leaf springs and saying you still have the same suspension travel in my mind atleast, they only go so far untill somthing else gives out, and that weak link is your ball joints!
 

k2500burb

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ok I just bought 2in blocks for my 3/4 ton burb and was going to crank the torsion bars to make it level. now im scared cause i dont want stuff breaking from the stress. so instead i might do a 2 inch body lift but i had a couple of questions. 1: will it pull to much slack on brake lines, wires, etc. 2: wont it cause the tranfer case gear selector to be "swallowed". 3: the engine mounts are on the frame so the eninge will sit 2 inches lower than everything else, wont that cause some overheating? any help would be great. Thanks
 
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