could this be the cause of my problem? is it safe?

[RichLo]

Towing that much over that many miles... be safe over being frugal, switch over to hydroboost and a get a new master

 

[91bbc]

Towing that much over that many miles... be safe over being frugal, switch over to hydroboost and a get a new master

I think switching over to hydro is a bit of stretch. But a new master is definitely in the works.

I'm just not sure about the booster and abs. Maybe the master is fine, and the problem is just the way they bled the brakes.

 

[Schurkey]

Start with bench-bleeding the "new" master cylinder, then bleed the ABS, then bleed the wheel cylinders.

If your ABS is like mine ('88 K1500) there's a single bleeder screw and no "special tools" needed. Have someone step on the pedal, open the screw, see what comes out--fluid or air. Close the screw. Repeat as needed to get CLEAN fluid at the bleeder screw.

'Bout the same for the wheel cylinders--open the bleeder screw, wait a while. The system should self-bleed via gravity. When you have CLEAN fluid and no air--close the bleeder screw. Move on to the next wheel cylinder. Refill the master cylinder as needed.



The worst part of all this will be getting ALL the air out of the replacement master cylinder. This generally involves tipping the master "down" in front, then lightly pushing the primary piston with a Phillips screwdriver or wood dowel, until there's NO bubbles (just two small fluid geysers) squirting into the bottom of the reservoir from the cylinder.

 

[91bbc]

Start with bench-bleeding the "new" master cylinder, then bleed the ABS, then bleed the wheel cylinders.

If your ABS is like mine ('88 K1500) there's a single bleeder screw and no "special tools" needed. Have someone step on the pedal, open the screw, see what comes out--fluid or air. Close the screw. Repeat as needed to get CLEAN fluid at the bleeder screw.

'Bout the same for the wheel cylinders--open the bleeder screw, wait a while. The system should self-bleed via gravity. When you have CLEAN fluid and no air--close the bleeder screw. Move on to the next wheel cylinder. Refill the master cylinder as needed.



The worst part of all this will be getting ALL the air out of the replacement master cylinder. This generally involves tipping the master "down" in front, then lightly pushing the primary piston with a Phillips screwdriver or wood dowel, until there's NO bubbles (just two small fluid geysers) squirting into the bottom of the reservoir from the cylinder.

thank you!

 

[Cisco]

So I took it to the shop and they used a smoke machine and used starting fluid to try the find the leak. They could not find it. They replaced the iac and it helped smooth things out a lot. Dropped the idle by 100 (idles at 1k now).


And stupidass people like that are the reason why I stopped going to shops. I've had 3 cars go in for small repairs and ended up with the cars taking a **** shortly after. And the last one was supposed to be a "master mechanic" ase certified ( or whatever it is)... Learned that doing things myself was alot cheaper and even though it might take longer than expected, the work is done right... And when I wasn't sure, there are people who are more than willing to help out and give you real answers to your problems instead of giving you some bullshit excuse to keep making money off you.

They did not hook up the truck to a computer, and I dont have one.

While the truck was there they flushed the brakes. Now my brake light comes on when I press the brakes, and has nothing then all of a sudden very strong brakes when I hit the pedal. It was also leaked from swollen seals between the master and reservoir. They said sometimes then they flush the brakes the seals leak in the master and I should replace it.

Since the booster looks like it is had a leak at one point, but holds vacuum and seems to work just fine is it possible replacing it and the master could solve my high idle? They said they tested the TPS and it was working perfectly, and I think its the last sensor that could affect my idle. I did the iac reset sequence with the new iac btw.

I'm going to try removing the stupid rear abs this weekend and see if the brake light thing goes away. Maybe there is air trapped in there.

Thanks!

 

[Erik the Awful]

And stupidass people like that are the reason why I stopped going to shops. I've had 3 cars go in for small repairs and ended up with the cars taking a **** shortly after. And the last one was supposed to be a "master mechanic" ase certified ( or whatever it is)... Learned that doing things myself was alot cheaper and even though it might take longer than expected, the work is done right... And when I wasn't sure, there are people who are more than willing to help out and give you real answers to your problems instead of giving you some bullshit excuse to keep making money off you.

It's a lack of professionalism and training. We tell people about professionalism, but we don't teach them how to be professional. I don't want to go all "millenials are the problem", but the Boomers failed to adequately train us Gen Xers, and then we didn't know how to train millenials. The millenials don't know any better. I've worked with people who profess that they know all about hard work, but when it comes time to work hard, they disappear and make excuses. That's all they've ever seen from their mentors, so they think that's hard work.

Running a business means being faced with time-sensitive bills while you're having to look out for your long-term viability by treating customers right. If you're not good at it, which one of those two is going to become more important? An incompetent business owner is going to take your cash while doing a poor job and he'll hope he gets a car he can diagnose the next time.

I've long believed that most of the evil done in this world was done to put food on a table.

 

[Schurkey]

but the Boomers failed to adequately train us Gen Xers, and then we didn't know how to train millenials.

And the Greatest Generation didn't train the Boomers, and the...Fookin' Pioneers didnt' train the Greatest Generation, and the Pilgrims didn't train the Pioneers.

I don't know who didn't train the Pilgrims.

None of this is new or uncommon.

 

[stutaeng]

I just saw that OP has the 454 but not hydroboost? At least on the later GMT 400, that engine had hydroboost standard.

But I've read here some early 2500 (even some 3500s?) had vacuum-assist brakes? Dunno.

Would be a good upgrade. But I understand you need to get your brakes working again so probably not good timing?

 

[Erin]

I don't know who didn't train the Pilgrims.

None of this is new or uncommon.

Maybe the Crusaders?