Coolant type Green or Dex-Cool

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thegawd

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Both trucks have prestone green coolant. They came green, I kept them green. I know no other way and never knew much about dexcool except what my Dad taught me.... dexcool ate away at seals that it wasnt made for and they are NOT to be mixed, one or the other. Dad said green so green it is. We always had gm vehicles and iv been wrenching since I could walk. I can remember flushing out orange coolant on somebody's vehicle and him complaining... if it ain't broke dont touch it.... I was a kid but I remember the dexcool caused harm one way or another i just can't remember what, Dad was and still is always fixing people's vehicles for beer. LOL he just has a damn nice garage now instead of a laneway.

Al
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Dont use the green stuff, it’s hard on seals and it’s corrosive, get the TEXACO OR ANY LONG LIFE RED STUFF, the water jacket will be free of rust, your water pump wont leak and all the engine sensors will be free of contaminents !
That's funny, I've had green stuff in my truck since 2002, when my Mr Goodwrench long block was installed. Hasn't leaked or burned any liquids including coolant since (until the head gaskets blew). When I tore down the engine to the short block a couple years ago, it was perfectly clean internally - no rust. All of the sensors still work fine. Here's a pic right after tear down with 16 years of use in the hot climates of CA and AZ. Even the valley was perfectly clean with no sludge.

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Schurkey

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Good God, there is so much WRONG or at least outdated information in this thread.

For the original poster: I have used "ordinary' green, I've used Dexcool, I've used non-Dexcool extended-life; and I've used "less-toxic" Propylene Glycol (Sierra brand) antifreeze.

ALL of them have worked JUST FINE. At this point, I lean toward non-Dexcool extended-life; largely because I've gotten lazy about coolant flushes, and the non-Dexcool costs less than Dexcool.

If I owned a vehicle that specified a particular coolant, I'd consider using the special stuff. I'd at least research the benefits of the specified coolant. Deathcool/DexKill USED to have problems with gaskets. The gaskets have been improved, the Dexcool formula has been changed...I think this is a "done" issue.

I ALWAYS tend to mix them "strong", more anti-freeze than water--up to 80% antifreeze; because it used to get really cold here. Thank God for global warming; I'm now mixing about 60% antifreeze, 40% water. If your engine overheats because you have "strong" coolant, your cooling system is under-sized or there's some other problem. I'm good to 100 degrees + with my "strong" coolant. I don't know how much hotter the outside temp could get, 'cause I've never overheated except when the head gasket popped on my Lumina. (it was February, at night, about -10F)

"Regular" Green anti freeze is supposedly good for two years before it needs to be flushed and re-filled. Have fun. I test my coolant for acid and freeze protection. My experience is that the green is good for 4+ years without problem.

The "Extended-life" coolants are supposedly good for 5 years. Have fun. I test my coolant. I've got no problem going seven to ten years with it.

I think the "two" and "five" year coolant flushes are exactly the same as "3000 mile" oil changes--a tremendous waste of time, money, effort, and enthusiasm PROVIDED YOU CHECK and TEST THE COOLANT NOW AND THEN. Although I've not done it, there are sacrificial anodes that will ward off cooling system corrosion, they're probably a smart move--but I never think of them until I'm answering a question. Gonna have to check Amazon to see what's available. I think Magnesium works better than Zinc, but either is better than nothing.

If you're using "regular green", you can buy test strips that show the level of acid and the freeze protection. It's harder to test extended-life coolant. It's worth checking the coolant for voltage using a multi-meter; electrolysis is evil whether it's a poorly-grounded engine component or depleted additives in the coolant.

https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-...rds=Coolant+test+strips&qid=1589234951&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Cool-Trak-31...rds=Coolant+test+strips&qid=1589234951&sr=8-6

I buy "pure" or "Full-strength" coolant, and gallon jugs of distilled water. Distilled water is under a dollar a gallon. One gallon of anti freeze is maybe fifteen dollars, sixteen with the water. Makes two gallons of coolant. Two gallons of "50/50" or "Premixed" coolant is about $25. Gotta be nuts to buy premixed.

Engines had aluminum components in the early '60s, and even before that. Advertising that coolant is "aluminum safe" is crazy, because it all is. Nothing special about "aluminum safe" glycol-based antifreeze, and folks haven't used methanol as anti-freeze since WW II.
 

454cid

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I knew a guy that put kerosene in his radiator in the winter time - he lived through the depression, ha ha. I was tempted during the energy crunch in the 70's but didn't have the guts!

Wow, I never thought of that. I guess it would work. I know that oil is used sometimes..... I wonder if that cooling oil is basically kerosene or heating oil? I've heard of it being used in racing..... F1 maybe? Also in super cold climates, like upper Canada near Santa's shop.

I've heard of a guy running propane in his AC..... I think it was on Youtube, or maybe a forum I was visiting while searching something.
 

Erik the Awful

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I knew a guy that put kerosene in his radiator in the winter time - he lived through the depression, ha ha. I was tempted during the energy crunch in the 70's but didn't have the guts!
Oil and water, etc., so I don't think it would be effective.

Apologies on the Google link, Jglew82 - you're right, the MSDS would be a better place for info. It sounds like they're advertising 'OAT' coolants as an alternative to glycol while glossing over the fact they're glycol based.

I ALWAYS tend to mix them "strong", more anti-freeze than water--up to 80% antifreeze; because it used to get really cold here. Thank God for global warming; I'm now mixing about 60% antifreeze, 40% water. If your engine overheats because you have "strong" coolant, your cooling system is under-sized or there's some other problem. I'm good to 100 degrees + with my "strong" coolant. I don't know how much hotter the outside temp could get, 'cause I've never overheated except when the head gasket popped on my Lumina. (it was February, at night, about -10F)
I'm in Oklahoma, and in the summer we sometimes get over 110*. We never see 0*. I go for a 50/50 mix, but I don't worry if it's a bit shy of that.

If you're using "regular green", you can buy test strips that show the level of acid and the freeze protection.
In the Air Force we use these to test the coolant in our flightline generators. They have a shelf life and deteriorate with exposure to the air. Still, when they're out of date they're still more effective than guessing. I use a hydrometer at the house, but it only shows freeze protection, not acidity. To me, if the color's off or it's cloudy it's time to change it. If the coolant still looks fresh, clear, and flourescent green, it's probably still good.

I buy "pure" or "Full-strength" coolant, and gallon jugs of distilled water. Distilled water is under a dollar a gallon. One gallon of anti freeze is maybe fifteen dollars, sixteen with the water. Makes two gallons of coolant. Two gallons of "50/50" or "Premixed" coolant is about $25. Gotta be nuts to buy premixed.
When I was a beginning technician I asked "Where do I get the distilled water to mix with the coolant?"
"You see that tap there? It's a magic tap. Say 'distilled water' before you turn it on and you'll get distilled water."
We always used tap water, but we were in town. Now that I live in the boonies and have well water, distilled water is a wiser choice, but I won't say I haven't used my well water. I wholeheartedly agree on premix being a price gouge.
 

JayMB

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Oil can't carry as much heat as water. Nowhere near as much actually, that's why water is pretty much a universal cooling fluid despite it's corrosion problems.

I use distilled water because it only costs $1.50 a gallon at the drug store. I have jugs of that around for topping up large lead-acid batteries too. I'd rather get distilled for something that sits in my engine for 5 years for the extra $3.
 

LoCascio_Inc

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I don’t understand how this thread has survived so long and keeps ending up in my email... Are you building a competition vehicle or and engine for truly extreme conditions? If not, put some 50/50 premix from the auto parts store in there and be done with it.

I live in central Texas where we get 100+ degree days in the summer for 30+ days in a row and even with 10 year old coolant I’ve never had a vehicle overheat that had an intact and functioning cooling system. That includes 4 gmt400s, TBI and Vortec. Hell, I ran straight water in my 4.0 Explorer for 13 years without issue (or routine maintenance).

This is seriously being overthought...
 

Dirty Bird

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All coolants are glycol based. Every single one of them that people generally speak of are mostly ethylene glycol. A very few of them (expesive non-standard stuff) are propylene glycol. It's the other ingredients that make one coolant Dexcool, another conventional green, and another G05.
I have been enlightened you are correct
 
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