Competing with a srt10

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sharpe.trey

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Would 3.73s be any better or would it just be skipping to 4.10s, regardless the motor rebuild with nitrous???

In a past post, I saw something saying that in order to run 13s in the gmt400 it would only need heads/cam and nitrous, I'm not denying anyone's knowledge just curious what it would take and why everyone to a degree seems to hate? we can seem to call it inferior technology and to a degree, it is when talking about the tech but there are plenty of sbc still outrunning newer motors... It seems like it'd be a similar power coming from the L31 in a lighter vehicle then the SRT10
 
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slowburb

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Would 3.73s be any better or would it just be skipping to 4.10s, regardless the motor rebuild with nitrous???

This is not going away I guess.

Gearing should match the rest of the combination. Any vehicle that is well sorted out is an equation of complementary parts that work together. The tire height and gear ratio work with the transmission to keep the engine in optimal rpm range for peak torque. The engine has to be built to make power at the rpm range where required based on vehicle weight and torque multiplication through the drivetrain. The chassis has to be set up to take the launch hit and recover to keep traction and allow steering to do its job.

This is why some 300 horse cars can beat some 500 horse cars at the track. Not to mention driver skill.
 

sharpe.trey

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I understand rear gears as you have highway gearing such as 2.98s and 1/4 gearing as 4.10s along with 1/8 anywhere from 4.68s to beyond... I also understand some people have found a nice compromise with 3.73s if they ever chose to drive on the street. I realize it's not an engine that only makes a vehicle as fast as seen with proper suspension setup can make an underpowered vehicle take over a race. I am no means a mechanic but I'm also not a high school kid expecting a v6 astro to beat a zr1 either...
 
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Sparkysikes

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3.73's with a smaller tire would offer a mean accel. But is this a race truck or a daily driver. If your serious about it doing both get a ford 9" and get two 3rd members. One 4.56 and. One 3.50 ish. I don't like anything less than that in a older truck as you just lug too many places around town and freeway. I had a super charged over killed xrunner. 3.15:1 AR. And with the roots blower hitting 9 plus psi at off idle that killed the tires. Stock. It was a dog down low.

So 3.42 and a roots blower would make more tq than the tires could handle on the street. And you could still call out most muscle cars on the road. If you wanna beat a new 5.0 Mustang with a 10 speed auto you'll need more boost. So build a motor that'll handle it. Or compound turbo set up.

Nitrous motor if done right means bigger gaps on the rings. You'll be leaking some compression on normal driving. Don't gap em right and sooner or later you'll try racing a lightning or srt on the freeway and kaboom. Boost will well keep building boost.

I guess what all this means is build it for what your gonna actually use it for. My truck hauls a lot of weight but rarely tows. I have 3.73's and a 4L80E and a low hp. Higher tq motor. It works great for what I need. I don't race her and. Never plan too. I want mpg and comfort.

Not gallons per mile like the xrunner have me
 

sharpe.trey

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That's the confusing part, with 383 cubic inches, aftermarket vortec heads, and LE stage II cam it seems it'd be a torque monster all the way to 5500rpms, not to mention the L35 stall(2100 I believe). I mention this in place of the supercharger along with nitrous but everyone is wanting to act like I would need a blown hemi in order to be competitive. idk if everybody is just so amazed by the youtube street racing videos nowadays with having turbo LS's or what I'm not expecting this to be an 11 sec truck but it doesn't seem impossible to get into the 13s given the combo I gave out. I mention 13s cause that seems to be mildly modded SRamT10 range...
 
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Sparkysikes

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Nitrous? You seem very attached to it. It's your truck and motor. Just let us know what works and doesn't. Help the community. I am a big sbc fan. Especially a 383 stroker, vortec heads even better. A lot of us have been there and done that. Just trying to help
 

RichLo

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Nirtous is the cheapest and easiest way to get into the 13s. Just dont get pill happy with a stock engine, start with 50shot and do a few runs to get used to it then try a few runs with 75 shot, be sure to retard timing a couple degrees, then once your comfortable with nitrous and tuning the engine for nitrous a stock motor *should* be able to safely handle 100 or MAYBE 125 shot safely when tuned right.

If your thinking about rebuilding the engine cheaply for nitrous, get quality forged crank, rods and pistons gapped for nitrous, re-use your heads and cam and you can throw gobs of nitrous at it safely (again slowly working up and tuning for it as you work up)
 

94burbk1500

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Nitrous just isn't meant for street cars, but you do what you want. If you run it with stock internals and ring gaps, don't be surprised if it grenades. If you build it for nitrous, don't be surprised when it runs like ass without it. I'm not trying to sound like a dick, but is this something you're actually going after, or just a fun little game of make believe?
 
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