Combination Valve replacement-What's everyone using?

[Flatcap]

There are quite a few good threads (some old) on the issues of combination valves etc here and have managed to learn a fair bit from reading them so many thanks to everyone who has shared knowledge.
As per an earlier thread, I need to replace the valve on my 92 K1500 which has the rear wheel ABS system but as you guys know, good replacements are near impossible to come by with the genuine part being discontinued years ago. I live in the UK so it's a lot harder to source parts and breaker yards with American stock is just about none existent!
I have been looking at generic stuff like Willwood but I'm more keen to see what replacement solutions have you managed to come up with?
This is another members photo but it's the same setup

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[Schurkey]

What's wrong with your existing combination valve?

 

[Flatcap]

Seems to be stuck in position (rear brakes no fluid) despite numerous attempts to move the valve forward by pumping the fronts & releasing front wheel fluid from bleeder nipples.

 

[Schurkey]

Seems to be stuck in position (rear brakes no fluid) despite numerous attempts to move the valve forward by pumping the fronts & releasing front wheel fluid from bleeder nipples.

Is the red "brake" light on the dash lit-up? If not, the safety switch isn't offset. If it is, there's two other potential causes that don't involve the safety switch (park brake pedal, and ABS)

It's almost unheard-of for a GM safety switch to stick in the offset position, and I don't think they "block" fluid flow even when they are offset. Some Ford safety switches have to be re-set manually. GM safety switches generally self-center.

Every time I don't get fluid at the rears, it's plugged bleeder screws, crushed brake tubing, a failed master cylinder that isn't developing pressure for the rear circuit, a failed ABS unit...or most-common--a plugged rear brake hose.

I'm not there. I don't know for certain. But I'd be REALLY surprised if the safety switch was the cause of your bleeding problem.

In MY driveway, I'd have someone push the brake pedal, while I loosened the flare nuts at various positions to see what had pressure and leaked, and what didn't.

 

[Flatcap]

Thanks Schurkey for the thoughts on this. The red light is indeed on but I'm going to take a look at the t piece over the rear axle as that's where I fitted new lines from the wheel cylinders to. This will at least confirm if fluid gets that far! Now to wait for the Scottish rain to stop. As a weird thanks, here's a photo of the new Defender we took up the hills a few days ago!

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