Clutch Help

Discussion in 'Transmissions' started by DTrain, Sep 22, 2020.

  1. DerekTheGreat

    DerekTheGreat I'm Awesome

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    My truck is ten years older than yours with an external slave. I replaced both the MC and slave and had a hell of time bleeding as well. Had to lift the ass end of the truck up a good deal and that finally did it. However, pedal was still engaging low. After about a week or two of driving it slowly adjusted itself and is now like before. This was last year during the winter. I can still feel the cold attacking my finger tips as I worked feverishly to have a vehicle again...
     
  2. Erik the Awful

    Erik the Awful I'm Awesome

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    Replace both the master and slave as a set! Otherwise you'll be bleeding the clutch again in a few months when you replace the other end.
     
  3. DTrain

    DTrain OBS Enthusiast

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    Well I got the new master cylinder on, so I’ve at least got clutch action and a driveable truck again. The clutch action itself feels awesome, a new master cylinder was definitely overdo. I have better response with all my other issues, but I’m not out of the weeds yet...I’ve had two bleeding sessions since I installed the master cylinder, which I’ve done by myself, that has sucked. Will any residual air works it’s way out of the system as I put miles on? Or am I doomed to bleed this thing until it’s 100%?
     
  4. sewlow

    sewlow Bitchin' Stitchin'

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    Keep an eye on the fluid level & for any leakage under the truck over the next week or so. Down a small amount would just be a residual bubble or two working it's way up.
    Sounds like it should be good now.
     
  5. DTrain

    DTrain OBS Enthusiast

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    Curiosity has gotten the better of me...

    Can you pump fluid into the system through the bleeder and eliminate air that way?
     
  6. DTrain

    DTrain OBS Enthusiast

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    This afternoon, after getting fed up with another bleed session, I pulled vacuum on the master cylinder...I couldn’t believe how much air I was getting, definitely gonna do that a few more times!
     
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  7. dwragon

    dwragon Newbie

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    When I worked at Newman Chevrolet, we had one guy who did nothing but hydraulic "drive" and "driven" cylinder replacement. This design was recognized as a PITA all the way back in 1960. The mid 80's to 95 GM drive and driven cylinder were both stainless steel, which promptly got thrown away on an aftermarket replacement, and why you don't see them anymore (All you had to do was replace the rubber cups.). All the agony I read about here is the same reason I converted mine to mechanical. One of the easiest ways to get air out of the system is, after you have a half bassed pedal, find a washboard country road to drive down, the gravitational vibration shakes up the fluid and forces the air upwards.
     
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