Clutch Help

[DTrain]

I’ve got a ‘99 K3500. Just got it back from having the transmission gone through. New bearings, synchros and input shaft.

While it was out went ahead and put a clutch in it, went with LUK.

I’ve only put maybe 50 miles on it at most since everything is back together and driving.

Here’s the problem...The clutch lets out super low. I’m having problems getting into gear initially, mainly 1st/2nd (low first) and reverse. Seems to shift through the gears pretty good cruising, but maybe catches third a fuzz.

I thought maybe things needed to break in a fuzz, but it seems like on hills with the clutch pressed I can feel it still pushing a little. Maybe I’m crazy.

it really feels like I need more pedal to push.

I feel like I’ve been all over this truck and know it well, but have never done anything with the slave cylinder. Do these things have a magic adjustment somewhere? I don’t see anything on the pedal. Is it time for a new one? Am I just missing something.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Dylan.

 

[DTrain]

New slave cylinder, wondering about the master.

 

[Pinger]

If there's air in the hydraulics you'll get a 'long' pedal.
If there's a leak, holding down the pedal while in gear will see the clutch engage itself (without releasing the pedal).
I'd bleed it before doing anything else.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Always replace the master and slave cylinder as a set. If there's rubber hose between them, replace that as well. From others' reports it sounds like our trucks can be a pain to bleed.

 

[sewlow]

When I replaced mine recently, it was a major PitA to get it bled. Spent a couple of hours doing that. Pumped it so much, had to change feet on the pedal!
New clutch, pressure plate, slave, master & line.
Got it so I could drive it. Short trip to the corner store & it wasn't shifting very well. Same as your description.
Next day, 16hours later, checked for leaks. All good. Went around the block & it felt somewhat better.
Bled it a bit more. Let it sit for the day.
After that, it worked as it should.

 

[DTrain]

I actually ordered a LUK master cylinder today. Comes pre-filled, bleed and ready to party. Well how plug and play it is. I bleed at the slave today and it was instant fluid, no air. I do have a lot of movement in the push rod on the clutch, so it’s probably the ticket. Will report back when I get it installed.

 

[DTrain]

I’m assuming I’ll probably have to bench bleed it once I get it opened up to be safe.

 

[sewlow]

I'd recommend picking up one of these. ...or 2. I always keep a spare in the g/box. IIRC, they're about $10.
A new one will take out a bunch of the slop.
The install procedure is to put the bushing into the hole in the clutch pedal arm first, then snap the pin on the push rod into the installed bushing.
Putting the bushing onto the push rod first, then the rod into the clutch pedal arm, will break the tabs. (How DO I know this? Doh!)

Dorman 74014. Clutch pedal bushing

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[DTrain]

Yeah, the slop I’m talking about is in and out on the master cylinder itself. I bet I can pull the pedal out an inch. I’d venture that inch will solve all my problems.

 

[DTrain]

Well I tried to bleed the master cylinder in question as a last ditch effort while I was waiting for the new MC to deliver, it totally **** the bed. Now I have absolutely no clutch at all with zero pressure on the pedal. Guess it was just a matter of time. New master cylinder is supposed to be delivered today...