Clunking front driver side

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Nordin

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 14, 2021
Messages
75
Reaction score
118
Location
Sweden
Heard a strange sound today, came from front left side, clunking sound, even felt it in the floor.
Nothing when I turn right, sometimes when driving straight in bumps but always and alot when turning left. Not just single clunk.
Crawled under the truck but didnt see anything strange.

My girlfriend who drives the truck every day told me a few days ago she heard the noice but not as bad as today.

Ideas? Where to start?
 

454cid

Sooper Pooper
Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
8,003
Reaction score
8,885
Location
The 26th State
Check your anti-roll bar link on the left. I had one break and what was left would hit the lower control arm when turning left.
 

HotWheelsBurban

Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Messages
9,686
Reaction score
17,572
Location
Houston, Texas
Sorry, its a 1999 5.7L Suburban that I bought almost three weeks ago. Trying to take the best care of her that I can
Sounds to me like the front hub is going bad. On the 4wd's, the front wheel bearings are in a sealed hub assembly. I had to do these a few years ago on a newer GMC SUV. I think the design is very similar to what is on the 400 series trucks.
I bought the hubs at my local parts store, IIRC they were around $125 each. Probably can get them cheaper online; at the time, I didn't have that option.
To do this job yourself, you'll need a socket to fit the axle nut( mine was 35mm or 1 3/8", some trucks are 36mm) and a ratchet and breaker bar to get it loose. I think the torque on it is 150 ft/lbs.,so it's pretty tight.
If the mounting is the same as the 2006 GMC I worked on, there's 3 bolts that go through the spindle into the hub flange to hold it. These have 15mm heads; you'll need a 15mm 6 point socket, as short as possible, to get these. There's only a couple inches, if that much, room to fit the socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet between the back of the spindle and the axle CV joint.
You'll have to remove the brake caliper from the rotor, but not from the truck entirely. If you take the brake hose loose, you'll have to bleed the brakes to get air out of the system. The rotor should come off once the caliper isn't sitting on it.
The truck I worked on did the exact same thing that yours is doing. I replaced both hubs, at different times, and neither one took more than a couple hours. The big hurdle was having the right tools.
I also replaced the mounting bolts, they were about $6 each from the Chevy dealer parts department.
How did I know your Burb is a 4wd? Your avatar picture shows it has the later model aluminum wheels on it. Those are 6 lug, which on a 400 series truck ( or the square body trucks that preceded them) means it's a 4wd, since it is a 1500( half ton). There's a 6 lug light duty 2500 series, but only on the pickups.
Also, when you're reassembling the truck, use anti seize compound on the mounting bolts, and clean and lubricate the caliper sliding surfaces with brake lubricant grease ( it's super high temperature capable). If the calipers can't slide properly, the brakes will grab and pull to one side.
Hope this helps, and I haven't totally confused you.
 

Nordin

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 14, 2021
Messages
75
Reaction score
118
Location
Sweden
Sounds to me like the front hub is going bad. On the 4wd's, the front wheel bearings are in a sealed hub assembly. I had to do these a few years ago on a newer GMC SUV. I think the design is very similar to what is on the 400 series trucks.
I bought the hubs at my local parts store, IIRC they were around $125 each. Probably can get them cheaper online; at the time, I didn't have that option.
To do this job yourself, you'll need a socket to fit the axle nut( mine was 35mm or 1 3/8", some trucks are 36mm) and a ratchet and breaker bar to get it loose. I think the torque on it is 150 ft/lbs.,so it's pretty tight.
If the mounting is the same as the 2006 GMC I worked on, there's 3 bolts that go through the spindle into the hub flange to hold it. These have 15mm heads; you'll need a 15mm 6 point socket, as short as possible, to get these. There's only a couple inches, if that much, room to fit the socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet between the back of the spindle and the axle CV joint.
You'll have to remove the brake caliper from the rotor, but not from the truck entirely. If you take the brake hose loose, you'll have to bleed the brakes to get air out of the system. The rotor should come off once the caliper isn't sitting on it.
The truck I worked on did the exact same thing that yours is doing. I replaced both hubs, at different times, and neither one took more than a couple hours. The big hurdle was having the right tools.
I also replaced the mounting bolts, they were about $6 each from the Chevy dealer parts department.
How did I know your Burb is a 4wd? Your avatar picture shows it has the later model aluminum wheels on it. Those are 6 lug, which on a 400 series truck ( or the square body trucks that preceded them) means it's a 4wd, since it is a 1500( half ton). There's a 6 lug light duty 2500 series, but only on the pickups.
Also, when you're reassembling the truck, use anti seize compound on the mounting bolts, and clean and lubricate the caliper sliding surfaces with brake lubricant grease ( it's super high temperature capable). If the calipers can't slide properly, the brakes will grab and pull to one side.
Hope this helps, and I haven't totally confused you.

Wow, just wow! Thanks alot for your amazing reply!
I have actually been thinking of the hub, but since Im not really that familiar with U.S vehicles I havent been so sure.
I’m used to Volvo

I will definitely look inte this more, is there any good way to make sure its the hub?
 

HotWheelsBurban

Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Messages
9,686
Reaction score
17,572
Location
Houston, Texas
If you jack the truck up on that side ( that it makes noise on)under the lower control arm, so that the wheel is off the ground, see if there is excess play in the wheel, up and down and side to side. If it makes the noise then, that's likely the hub. There's a similar check process for wheel bearings on older cars ( basically this is what you're doing).
On my truck, it was worse on the driver's/left side than the right, but where we lived then had big potholes in the parking alley that you'd hit with the left side. Big truck, small driveway, no way to avoid it! They repaved it after I fixed the truck....
 

Hipster

I'm Awesome
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
3,388
Reaction score
5,853
Location
Liberty, NC
There's a lot more than sway bar bushings and hubs that can be clunking. Control arm bushings , ball joints, steering linkage etc. Like said a thorough inspection is needed and if you can't find it take it to someone who is familiar with suspension work.

You need some one to turn the steering wheel back and forth while looking for play. Rap on stuff with a hammer,, Pry on control arm bushings and the like.. Check the hubs like said.

Checking a hub doesn't matter if it a Volvo or a Gm your response indicates you have little to no experience. Don't play with suspension or brakes. When those fail, loss of control is what can happen. Get this sorted before sending your girl back out in it.
 
Top