Chevy G20 350 V8 5.7 Smog Pump Delete

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Intimi88tr

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So will this pop a code? Can you stick a resistor somewhere to deal with it?
(Am I going to regret asking this question :p )
 

90halfton

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So will this pop a code? Can you stick a resistor somewhere to deal with it?
(Am I going to regret asking this question :p )
Not sure it's that intelligent. If it we're me I'd give it a shot and see. No bad will come of it. Sometimes ya just gotta work s### out as ya go.
 

Mule89

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I had a 94 z71 than didnt do that. Only bad thing is I cant be cool and rev it up without being laughed at! It has a single outlet setup with a flowmaster. I cant tell which model it is, but I have no drone in the cab. But gets loud when I get on it.
LOL only if you'er in first gear any rpm and or let off it above 3,000 rpm not letting the trans up shift. A single pipe sounds better to me any ways especially a 3.5in some people think I have a Big Block and the tone is super deep plus peoples faces when i point it out. I have it exit in the stock location sounds keeps it quiet in the cab. Police never do figure out who is disturbing the peace.:shrug:
 

C2500

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My 88 c2500 came without a/c but i want to remove the air pump.Should i just measure for a shorter belt?
 

PlayingWithTBI

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My 88 c2500 came without a/c but i want to remove the air pump.Should i just measure for a shorter belt?
I'd go in to your parts house and ask for a belt that fits a vehicle w/o A.I.R. or Federal Standards instead of CA.
 

Schurkey

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What's the point of removing the AIR pump? It's not like it sucks a lot of horsepower to turn it, and it doesn't cause any driveability problems if the diverter valve works properly. Overall, it's almost as benign as PCV.

More work to screw around getting rid of it than it's worth.
 

geeeee89

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My 88 c2500 came without a/c but i want to remove the air pump.Should i just measure for a shorter belt?

I just got done removing mine. Took the smog pump and idler pulley off and just measured for a shorter belt. Then compared that to the belt at the parts house that was supposed to be for the same truck without cali emissions and that belt was way too long based on my measurements. on the non smog pump trucks there must be an idler there or something to take up more slack, not really sure. so I just used the belt they handed me based on the measurement I asked for. mine was on a 454 so if you need that measurement or belt # just let me know. I'll post a thread about it soon.

What's the point of removing the AIR pump? It's not like it sucks a lot of horsepower to turn it, and it doesn't cause any driveability problems if the diverter valve works properly. Overall, it's almost as benign as PCV.

More work to screw around getting rid of it than it's worth.

cleans up the engine bay and gets rid of unnecessary equipment. my truck originally came from calif. and I'm in Mississippi where emissions testing isn't a thing. changing the plugs and plug wires was a pain with all the extra **** in the way. I removed all of it to make the engine look neater and to rid myself of another potential failure point when towing on a road trip. Wasn't trying to gain any performance or anything, it was a reliability thing for me. The only annoying part of the removal was the crossover pipe that goes around the back of the motor. The truck ran noticeably quieter after it was all gone so something was fucky with mine to begin with.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Took the smog pump and idler pulley off and just measured for a shorter belt. Then compared that to the belt at the parts house that was supposed to be for the same truck without cali emissions and that belt was way too long based on my measurements.
Your 454 may be different but, on my 350 CA truck it shows you leave the idler on when you delete the smog pump. I haven't done that yet but am thinking about it because it is a PITA getting to stuff around it and the tubes.
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geeeee89

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Your 454 may be different but, on my 350 CA truck it shows you leave the idler on when you delete the smog pump. I haven't done that yet but am thinking about it because it is a PITA getting to stuff around it and the tubes.

thanks, yea i guess that explains why the belt the system at the parts store showed a little longer belt. I didn't see the point of keeping the idler, unless it is to have more of a wrap around the a/c compressor. if the belt starts squealing with the a/c on I'll know to put the idler back on with the belt that is called for on a non-CA truck. Currently runs perfectly without the idler there, but my a/c doesn't work so I guess I'll find out when I get that fixed. without the idler the belt just goes in a straight line from the crankshaft pulley to the a/c compressor and it's just as tight as stock, so I don't foresee it being an issue
 
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