Cheap Parts - The Temptation is Real

[Jared Jackson]

Well... Amazon didn’t like the refund card I used for an overpayment from one of my cars I just traded in. So... I am back to square 1 and shopping around again. There was a 487 dollar balance on the refund card and I had a little over 500 in my shopping cart. Figured it would let me use 2 methods of payment and I would just pay the difference from my debit card... but Amazon customer service said they cannot take multiple payment methods. That’s fine, so will just have more time to consider options. Mevotech would definitely be cheaper and Delco was actually more expensive than the Moog counterparts...

On the RAM side of the house, mevotech was a preferred replacement UCA when installing a lift since the stock ball joints would start to back out of the stock UCA.

 

[Chewy1576]

I just bought the Detroit Axle front hubs for my K3500 this morning. Going to order Proforged ball joints, pitman arm, and idler arm as well. Lifetime warranty CV axles will come from O Reilly soon also.

 

[Chuck_13]

I've heard some bad things about Moog quality in recent years. I did AC Delco pro tie rods, pitman and idler, I'm happy with them.

Had an outer tie rod replaced (Moog) on my 06 Silverado cc when the front end was being aligned.11 months later that tie rod broke and only by the grace of God did i not die that day.Took the truck (on a wrecker) back to the shop that did the work-It was plain to see a flaw in the casting/forging.You buy Moog,all you're buying is the name.Just my $.02.

 

[454cid]

Had an outer tie rod replaced (Moog) on my 06 Silverado cc when the front end was being aligned.11 months later that tie rod broke and only by the grace of God did i not die that day.Took the truck (on a wrecker) back to the shop that did the work-It was plain to see a flaw in the casting/forging.You buy Moog,all you're buying is the name.Just my $.02.

Are you sure it was Moog Problem Solver parts and not their lowend Quicksteer line? Until your post, the only people I've read with their own complaints have been foreign car/truck people. They always seem to want OEM.

 

[Chuck_13]

Nope,top of the line Moog part(this shop doesn't sell cheap parts.If I recall correctly my price on the tie rod end was $88 (!!).But the shop stood behind their work,paid the wrecker bill and apologized profusely,even though it wasn't their fault.The tie rod end broke when i was in a curve,and had there been someone coming the other way,I doubt i would be sitting here typing this.

 

[delta_p]

I put all Moog steering components in as replacement to all the old stock stuff. Everything including ball joints, but used the stock drag link. Did this at the same time i removed and rebuilt my stock steering gear box. Have not had any problems at all with any of the moog parts and steering seems to be holding tight.

 

[Chewy1576]

I put all Moog steering components in as replacement to all the old stock stuff. Everything including ball joints, but used the stock drag link. Did this at the same time i removed and rebuilt my stock steering gear box. Have not had any problems at all with any of the moog parts and steering seems to be holding tight.

How hard was it to rebuild the steering box? Mine is super loose and leaking.

 

[delta_p]

If you are very mechanical you can do it but is not hard. You need to follow the steps exactly in the Saginaw assembly https://www.midweststeering.com/wp-content/uploads/Sag800-Service.pdf

Buy the complete seal kit with the flange seal and fold over tab part 45. mark everything before disassembly.

I would recommend heating number 40, the slide ring, in the oven before attempting to install it to aid in getting it over the lip of the piston. The blue part in the photo.

Keep the orientation of the worm thrust bearing and thrust washers since they are slightly angled.

The oring number 6 (between the roller and stub shaft) in the seal kit may be slightly too large so keep this seal intact when disassembly in order to be able to use it again if needed. This seal is a blind installation and the seal will be cut if it is too large.

Would not recommend doing a rebuild if your not highly mechanical. For full rebuild you'll disassembling down to each individual part in the diagram. I only did it myself because i design and build hydraulic equipment and very comfortable with this level of mechanical detail down to seals, installations, preloads, etc.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Jared Jackson]

If you are very mechanical you can do it but is not hard. You need to follow the steps exactly in the Saginaw assembly https://www.midweststeering.com/wp-content/uploads/Sag800-Service.pdf

Buy the complete seal kit with the flange seal and fold over tab part 45. mark everything before disassembly.

I would recommend heating number 40, the slide ring, in the oven before attempting to install it to aid in getting it over the lip of the piston. The blue part in the photo.

Keep the orientation of the worm thrust bearing and thrust washers since they are slightly angled.

The oring number 6 (between the roller and stub shaft) in the seal kit may be slightly too large so keep this seal intact when disassembly in order to be able to use it again if needed. This seal is a blind installation and the seal will be cut if it is too large.

Would not recommend doing a rebuild if your not highly mechanical. For full rebuild you'll disassembling down to each individual part in the diagram. I only did it myself because i design and build hydraulic equipment and very comfortable with this level of mechanical detail down to seals, installations, preloads, etc.

You must be registered for see images attach

You just convinced me to purchase one when the time comes, thanks! lol

I am mechanical, but there's always that line where I would rather just purchase an assembly that was already re-man'd... just have to find a company I trust to do it.

 

[delta_p]