Cargo Light

[aleebee156]

Anyone know how the cargo light is wired on a 97 k1500 4x4? The cargo light for the bed of the truck, ash I'm sure you all know, only operates when the cab lights inside the truck are on. I want then two to be separate, meaning I want to be able to use the cargo light without having to have the inside cab lights on.

Make sense? Thoughts?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[mattillac]

It seems like that should be pretty easy to do(on paper).

According to the diagram(s) I am looking at, when you switch the cargo lamp switch to on, positive + batter power is being sent all the way to the cargo lamp bulbs, even with the ignition off. The cargo lamp switch is fed (alway hot) positive + batter power (orange wire) via the "ctsy fuse" 20amp located at the IP fuse block, the + batter power leaves the cargo lamp switch on a dk blu / wht wire and goes directly to the cargo lamp.

The cargo lamp shares the (negative- battery power) ground with the other interior lights, the ground seems to be switched (cotrolled) via the courtesy lamp switch and/or the interior lamp control module and/or the remote control door lock receiver? The diagram shows the cargo lamp and front dome lamp are spliced (s322 dome lamp harness) near right rear door speaker breakout.

So it seems as though the cargo lamp only needs its own (pemanent) separate ground to function exclusively via the cargo lamp switch (ignition on or off).

It would be very important to cap and isolate the original (switched) ground (white wire) that fed the cargo lamp, that original ground wire would still be in control of the other interior lights etc etc! Like if you merely added a additional ground to the existing cargo lamp wiring, that would cause all the other interior (courtesy) lights to stay on permanetly etc etc! Don't just cut the original ground wire to the cargo lamp and leave it swinging in the breeze, it must be capped, isolated and secure !

Links to the diagrams I am looking over.....

http://autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/GMC/1997/Pickup K1500/SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS/16238.pdf

http://autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/GMC/1997/Pickup K1500/SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS/16252.pdf

Food for thought.

 

[jkeaton]

Mine has a switch to turn it on or off by itself. The switch marked "cargo light".

 

[88GMCtruck]

It seems like that should be pretty easy to do(on paper).

According to the diagram(s) I am looking at, when you switch the cargo lamp switch to on, positive + batter power is being sent all the way to the cargo lamp bulbs, even with the ignition off. The cargo lamp switch is fed (alway hot) positive + batter power (orange wire) via the "ctsy fuse" 20amp located at the IP fuse block, the + batter power leaves the cargo lamp switch on a dk blu / wht wire and goes directly to the cargo lamp.

The cargo lamp shares the (negative- battery power) ground with the other interior lights, the ground seems to be switched (cotrolled) via the courtesy lamp switch and/or the interior lamp control module and/or the remote control door lock receiver? The diagram shows the cargo lamp and front dome lamp are spliced (s322 dome lamp harness) near right rear door speaker breakout.

So it seems as though the cargo lamp only needs its own (pemanent) separate ground to function exclusively via the cargo lamp switch (ignition on or off).

It would be very important to cap and isolate the original (switched) ground (white wire) that fed the cargo lamp, that original ground wire would still be in control of the other interior lights etc etc! Like if you merely added a additional ground to the existing cargo lamp wiring, that would cause all the other interior (courtesy) lights to stay on permanetly etc etc! Don't just cut the original ground wire to the cargo lamp and leave it swinging in the breeze, it must be capped, isolated and secure !

Links to the diagrams I am looking over.....

http://autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/GMC/1997/Pickup K1500/SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS/16238.pdf

http://autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/GMC/1997/Pickup K1500/SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS/16252.pdf

Food for thought.

You are right on the money. I did this to my truck quite awhile ago, as I like being able to turn the cargo light on and off separately. Here is a diagram specific to the cargo/CHMSL. I did the work back there, just make sure you get the right white wire or you'll short some things out.

You must be registered for see images attach

Mine has a switch to turn it on or off by itself. The switch marked "cargo light".

Right, but it only works when the dome lights are on.

 

[aleebee156]

Awesome feedback, thank you both. Im gonna study these diagrams closely and do the mod next week. Ill let you know how it goes.

88GMCtruck: if I'm understanding correctly you're saying that you cut the white wire back at the lights themselves rather than in the cab at the switch? Then splice the white wire coming from the lights to the Black wire, and then the other side of the white wire you just cap off so its safe and just leave it hanging not connected like MATTILLAC mentioned?

 

[88GMCtruck]

Awesome feedback, thank you both. Im gonna study these diagrams closely and do the mod next week. Ill let you know how it goes.

88GMCtruck: if I'm understanding correctly you're saying that you cut the white wire back at the lights themselves rather than in the cab at the switch? Then splice the white wire coming from the lights to the Black wire, and then the other side of the white wire you just cap off so its safe and just leave it hanging not connected like MATTILLAC mentioned?

I did mine at the Cargo/CHMSL light itself, on the truck side of the plug. And yes, that is the correct procedure, just make sure you get the correct white wire from the cargo lights.

 

[WTwarrior]

Are the cargo light switches known to go out, even with dome lights on i have no cargo lights, i havent tried a jumper wire or anything yet, its a whopping 28 degrees and i dont have a garage

 

[KeKe2369]

You are right on the money. I did this to my truck quite awhile ago, as I like being able to turn the cargo light on and off separately. Here is a diagram specific to the cargo/CHMSL. I did the work back there, just make sure you get the right white wire or you'll short some things out.

You must be registered for see images attach

Right, but it only works when the dome lights are on.

Hi… so I’m searching for this very thing. I have all the same issues and I have wired seven different ways to Sunday . I don’t understand schematics and I’m not sure about different wires locations in fuse box . I have cut into everything trying to fix this . Can someone draw me a map with colors ???? I am SERIOUS

 

[kennythewelder]

Hi… so I’m searching for this very thing. I have all the same issues and I have wired seven different ways to Sunday . I don’t understand schematics and I’m not sure about different wires locations in fuse box . I have cut into everything trying to fix this . Can someone draw me a map with colors ???? I am SERIOUS

The last response to this thread was back in 2017, so the posters who posted here may not be in here any more. I will try to help you through this. I didnt know that you didnt know how to read a schematic. So the orange wire will be the + side. Most everything in any vehicle is turned off or on, on the + side, but not the dome light. All of the switches are in the - side. So the + is always on. Electricity flows like water for the most part. It is always looking for the path of least resistance to ground - . If you turn ot off at the ground side, like the dome lights are, it can not flow back to the battery. So this turns it off. I have done the same thing as you years ago. I added a ground wire ( white wire in this case) not knowing that this is where the switch is. Like you, the lights would not turn off. So start with this. Orange wire goes to one side of the bulb. And white wire goes to the other side of the bulb. White wire goes to the switches. The other wire in the switch, will go to a ground - .

 

[ForeverFalcon40]

I have a 96 GMC CCLB

Cargo Light Switch on the dash is 4 Prong

2 Pins to the left of the Plug that are on top of eachother are POWER
2 Pins on the left of each other are ground I assume b/c no power reading

I tried jumping them with no luck and I ended up blowing the Courtesy Light Fuse In the cab

My Brake Lights Work...Cargo Not. I got the truck this way...I installed a LED 3rd Brake light

Does anyone have any photos? Are you cutting and splicing at the PLUG for the 3rd brake light?
OR
Map Lights on the inside? I have a CC so there is one in the front and one in the rear

If needed I can upload a video to my youtube channel to my poor electrical diag