Can't Load Torsion Bar?

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jb99

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I'm finishing up a front end rebuild on a '94 K1500 plow truck I bought last fall. The passenger side torsion bar key is hanging below the cross-member, and it's pretty much impossible to load it enough to get the retaining bracket back in. I was cranking on it pretty good and wound up stripping the retaining tool. Something definitely seems wrong.

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Any idea if the torsion bar could be in the wrong side? Or is it so far gone that it's twisted too far the other way? It's mainly a farm/plow truck, so if there's a way to jerry-rig it, let me know.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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Is that the OE bar and is that the OE key?
There is a specific tool to do this. Do you have it?
Are you trying to crank the key up with the truck on the ground? The suspension needs to be hanging...
 
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jb99

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Not sure if it's OE, the whole thing is pretty rusted - is there a way to identify if it is? I do have the proper tool, but it was so much pressure when I was trying to get the key up high enough it stripped some of the threads. I've got a new tool on the way. And yes, the front is on jack stands. Does the rear need to be up as well?
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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The amount of rust covering the key, the bar, the crossmember should tell you about originality... if it all matches, they're OE.
Does the key easily slide off the bar, does the bar easily slide out of the LCA?
 

jb99

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Yes, I lubed the threads of the tool. I agree on the rust, that has me thinking it's likely original. The bar & key will move within the cross-member, but I can't get the bar to budge within the LCA. Nothing slides easily. I've soaked it with PB Blaster and beat it quite a bit.

Given that it's mostly a farm truck, I'm hoping I can get the torsion bar loaded without having to replace many more parts. My fear is there's a larger issue, and loading the bar will cause other problems. Although, I didn't really have issues before I started this project.

Here's the driver side bar, this looks more like what I would expect. The key doesn't need to be loaded much to get the retaining bracket in, especially compared to the passenger side
 

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Nad_Yvalhosert

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Yes, I lubed the threads of the tool. I agree on the rust, that has me thinking it's likely original. The bar & key will move within the cross-member, but I can't get the bar to budge within the LCA. Nothing slides easily. I've soaked it with PB Blaster and beat it quite a bit.

Given that it's mostly a farm truck, I'm hoping I can get the torsion bar loaded without having to replace many more parts. My fear is there's a larger issue, and loading the bar will cause other problems. Although, I didn't really have issues before I started this project.

Here's the driver side bar, this looks more like what I would expect. The key doesn't need to be loaded much to get the retaining bracket in, especially compared to the passenger side

That sounds reasonable. The weight of the driver and the fuel in the tank always sag the driver side more rapidly than the passenger.
If the bar wont come out, it's never been out. Kinds leads to the key being original.
Make sure the torsion bar tool is keyed into the hole on the top of the x-member, and use an impact. It will compress it back into position.
 

jb99

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I used an impact originally, that might have been what messed up the threads on the torsion bar tool. I'll give it another shot with the new tool. Didn't think of unbolting the shock, I'll try that as well. I'm also going to loosen up the UCA further. It's not torqued down at all, but probably could be looser. I'm hoping if I loosen everything up and try to drop the LCA as far down as it can go, the torsion bar will rotate further.
 

jb99

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Well I got the retaining brackets into the cross-member. I used a breaker bar with a ton of leverage to slowly crank the torsion bar up enough. It was a ton of pressure and the truck didn't sound like it was happy about it, but it's in there. Something is definitely different with the passenger side torsion bar, as the truck sits at a wildly different height when both adjustment bolts are set the same. I'll have to even it out.

The next problem I'm facing is getting the top shock mount back in. It's probably 2" off from the hole at this point. Dropping the passenger side ride height should help close this gap, right?
 

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