Can I efficiently rebuild an internal combustion engine?

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Supercharged111

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We had an early 80s fwd Caddy 2 door with that motor. Absolute gutless wonder, but the car rode like a dream and had auto dimming headlights that worked pretty damn good. Only thing that faked them out was hanging lights over intersections in the middle of nowhere.
 

MIHELA

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A lot of people just disabled the switch for the 8-6-4, and it just behaved like a 368 and was a good engine. The HT4100 was a disaster. Half the displacement of a 500 in only 4 years. The floating wet liners and aluminum block, iron head design are just a bad idea. They also carried on the 500's tradition of half baked valvetrain design.
 

Supercharged111

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A lot of people just disabled the switch for the 8-6-4, and it just behaved like a 368 and was a good engine. The HT4100 was a disaster. Half the displacement of a 500 in only 4 years. The floating wet liners and aluminum block, iron head design are just a bad idea. They also carried on the 500's tradition of half baked valvetrain design.

Valvetrain was a moot point, those 4100s were TURDS. Didn't make enough power to hurt a fly.
 

1993-Sierra-Z71

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So since this got a bit off track, I'm here to put it back on track. Was it being 95° outside, and the metal roof down on my garage My attention is back to the 400. Last night I got the can bearings knocked out using a friend's Lyle 18,000 cam bearing tool which were slick as far as I know the cam bearings are original as I don't see any aftermarket stamping on the outside indicating manufacturer or a date like the crank and rod bearings did All of them have a minor scratch on them which you can catch as a fingernail and the second can bearing in which there is a photo of you can see it has a very hardware on the end from being riding down low so I can assume that the cam that came in the motor is junk which I wasn't going to plan on running that anyway. I just got to get my proper plug socket to remove what I'm assuming is a oil galley plug in the back by the distributor bore and next to the cam and bearing then I need the go get the motor cleaned for this initial wash might just do that outside with some soapy water and then spray it down with WD-40, or I'll take it my buddies work and he's got actual jet washer. Then I need to work on getting the broken timing cover bolt out of the front which it's just past flush enough, I'll need to weld a nut on it or if I'm a glutton for punishment, I'll try to drill and extract it with a little bit of heat, but I'm hesitant on doing that because the casting that bolt goes into goes right in the cooling passage in the front of the motor and I don't want to get the drill bit sideways. Then it's game of cleaning up all the casting flash in the lifter valley and on the outside of the block a dingle ball hone, and more than likely I'll be running ARP studs in it so I'm going to have to get those ordered and the block line honed.
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