Camber no more adjustment

[edvard]

Let's make a long story short. I replaced pretty much my entire front end a few months ago, but no moolah for a proper alignment. Now I do, got new tires and immediately went to Les Schwab. They did the alignment, but said my camber's out, and do i want to pay them to do the required work to fix it, or do it myself. Apparentley, i need to punch out the knockouts to get more adjustment room.

My questions:
- can I do this with just a mini sledge and a big punch? Or do I need a special tool?
- can I do this without tearing everything down, just detach and lower the upper control arm, maybe remove the wheel? Or do I need to remove the wheel and drop the knuckle, etc.?

 

[DieselTech]

Let's make a long story short. I replaced pretty much my entire front end a few months ago, but no moolah for a proper alignment. Now I do, got new tires and immediately went to Les Schwab. They did the alignment, but said my camber's out, and do i want to pay them to do the required work to fix it, or do it myself. Apparentley, i need to punch out the knockouts to get more adjustment room.

My questions:
- can I do this with just a mini sledge and a big punch? Or do I need a special tool?
- can I do this without tearing everything down, just detach and lower the upper control arm, maybe remove the wheel? Or do I need to remove the wheel and drop the knuckle, etc.?

Buy the knock out tool.

 

[edvard]

One more question: I've seen around the webs that once you do the knockouts, you need to use different bolts. Is this true? If so, anybody have a part number?

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

One more question: I've seen around the webs that once you do the knockouts, you need to use different bolts. Is this true? If so, anybody have a part number?

Not true. The OE bolts have offset washers that are used to adjust the upper A-Arm into spec.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

- can I do this without tearing everything down, just detach and lower the upper control arm, maybe remove the wheel? Or do I need to remove the wheel and drop the knuckle, etc.?

Ive been aligning vehicles, including our beloved GMT400s for over 25 years.

Jack up the truck by the lower A-Arm, remove the wheel. Remove the ABS sensor wire from all plastic clips from the frame by the shock. Unbolt the cam bolts and move the UCA out of the way, forward or backward out of the pockets. NOT OUWARD, you dont want to stretch out the brake hose or the CV shaft tri-pot.

That's all you need to remove to access the knockouts.

On reassembly, install the cam bolts in a center position, then take it for an alignment.

 

[liquidh8]

What he said. I use an air hammer for the stubborn knock outs to get em out. Some trucks I could use a prybar and just flick it out, others are stubborn. While I have the UCA out, I also usually upgrade the bolts to the greaseable units.

 

[Supercharged111]

Hammer and a punch is all you need.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Using the correct tool makes the job MUCH faster, and leaves the frame without damage. Additionally, there's less of a chance of damage by repeatedly swinging a 3 pound Ford wrench...

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[liquidh8]

OEMTOOLS 24210 GM Upper Control Arm Knock Out Tool

Yup, on order, all these years I did it the other ways.

 

[Schurkey]

1. Be careful. NOT all GMT400 come with the eccentrics and matching bolts.

2. If you have to, the eccentrics and bolts are available in the aftermarket.

3. The tool is ~$21.

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[someotherguy]

Using the correct tool makes the job MUCH faster, and leaves the frame without damage. Additionally, there's less of a chance of damage by repeatedly swinging a 3 pound Ford wrench...

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Something tells me you've done enough of these trucks to find that some of them pop right out, and others put up a fight. I'd much rather have the tool in hand when it comes time to do the job.

Richard

 

[edvard]

Something tells me you've done enough of these trucks to find that some of them pop right out, and others put up a fight. I'd much rather have the tool in hand when it comes time to do the job.

Richard

Are there certain years where the knockouts are more difficult to remove, requiring the tool? Ive seen a few videos on the yootoobs that show the knockouts to be little more than tabs you can punch out with a hammer and 6-inch extension, so the tool seems unnecessary at best, overkill at worst. But it exists, so there must be a need.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Are there certain years where the knockouts are more difficult to remove, requiring the tool?

Yes, from '88-'02

Ive seen a few videos on the yootoobs that show the knockouts to be little more than tabs you can punch out with a hammer and 6-inch extension,

C trucks, K trucks, and G vans. All the frame steel was allegedly punched and perforated, but there's no telling at what depth or pressure was used.

As to the tool, its better to have it and not need it, than to cut, punch, torch, grind, or otherwise destroy the frame pockets attempting a mod without instruction.

so the tool seems unnecessary at best, overkill at worst. But it exists, so there must be a need.

So, you're a square peg, a round hole, and BFH kind of guy?

 

[edvard]

Yes, from '88-'02



C trucks, K trucks, and G vans. All the frame steel was allegedly punched and perforated, but there's no telling at what depth or pressure was used.

As to the tool, its better to have it and not need it, than to cut, punch, torch, grind, or otherwise destroy the frame pockets attempting a mod without instruction.



So, you're a square peg, a round hole, and BFH kind of guy?

No, I'm a "save money wherever I can, even if it takes longer" kind of guy. Les Schwab quoted me $2200 to fix all the front end issues before they would even touch the alignment. I figured i could spend half that in tools and parts, and thats what I did. It took 3 months to finish, but it was worth (to me) the money saved and the knowledge gained.

 

[someotherguy]

No, I'm a "save money wherever I can, even if it takes longer" kind of guy. Les Schwab quoted me $2200 to fix all the front end issues before they would even touch the alignment. I figured i could spend half that in tools and parts, and thats what I did. It took 3 months to finish, but it was worth (to me) the money saved and the knowledge gained.

That tool is only $29 currently (up from $23 when I bought mine a few years ago)

Just sayin'

Richard

 

[scott2093]

All the frame steel was allegedly punched and perforated, but there's no telling at what depth or pressure was used.

I had a little fight even with the knockout tool but it definitely was much nicer dealing with one boogered section on each side than the entire thing. I couldn't imagine how not fun that would be.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

No, I'm a "save money wherever I can, even if it takes longer" kind of guy. Les Schwab quoted me $2200 to fix all the front end issues before they would even touch the alignment.

Please post a pic of that estimate, itemized, because is sounds like this Les guy is trying to ream out your behind...

I figured i could spend half that in tools and parts, and thats what I did. It took 3 months to finish, but it was worth (to me) the money saved and the knowledge gained.

You chose wisely.

 

[edvard]

Please post a pic of that estimate, itemized, because is sounds like this Les guy is trying to ream out your behind...

Oh, I dont doubt that was what it was worth, he showed me video of ball joints hanging by a thread, castle nuts with rusted out cotter pins, etc. It was not pretty. I think the only parts I kept were the lower control arms, drag link, and steering knuckles.

You chose wisely.

Agreed.

 

[edvard]

OK, I peeked my head into the wheel well just to see if I could see anything, and it looks like all the knockouts have already been punched out. I can see the rounded hole edges peeking out from under the control arm bushings. Les Schwab told me the camber was adjusted as far as it will go, but I still have a bit of positive camber on that side. If the adjusters can't pull the control arms in any further, what will they likely do to fix this? They want to charge me $149/hour to do the work, and it'll likely take two hours. I just want to know what kind of jiggery-pokery they are going to get up to while servicing it so I can decide if I want to pay or not..

 

[at7615]

OK, I peeked my head into the wheel well just to see if I could see anything, and it looks like all the knockouts have already been punched out. I can see the rounded hole edges peeking out from under the control arm bushings. Les Schwab told me the camber was adjusted as far as it will go, but I still have a bit of positive camber on that side. If the adjusters can't pull the control arms in any further, what will they likely do to fix this? They want to charge me $149/hour to do the work, and it'll likely take two hours. I just want to know what kind of jiggery-pokery they are going to get up to while servicing it so I can decide if I want to pay or not..

It is easy to align the GMT400's, flat, level surface, thick contractor trash bags under the wheels, couple of magnetic gauges, tape measure or steel ruler for toe, I can get better tire wear and handling than the shops using computer equipment, no replacement for experience and common sense. So get you a pair of these and give us feedback and we'll save you a fortune and you'll gain a skill!

https://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/ProdPDF/GA45.PDF

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