Camber issues

[Ehall8702]

So I have been reading for hours and hours and many late nights to get ideas of how to lift my truck as right as I can for as cheap as I can ( u know like everyone else is). So far I have torsion keys cranked fully, which was fine except uca but sag stop. I needed new ball joints so I just did a ball joint flip. Now I have way too much positive camber, like u can see it plainly. It fixed the uca touching sag stop issue though. Camber ( by eye atleast ) looked fine before balljoint flip but was worried about CV axle angle and sag stop touching. As of right now I haven't purchased blocks for the rear , but have new u bolts long enuff for 3" blocks if I need them. I really wanted to find out how much lift I can get the front up before I bought blocks. I just have my rear air shocks with Max air pressure in them to level it out till I find out what blocks I am going to need. Not worried about axle wrap since I will be fabbing ladder bars soon also. My worries are being able to get this thing aligned before I spend 1500 on new tires. I have 35x12.50r20s on it right now and it only rubs the frame at full lock. Hit the bumper edge slightly, but a hammer fixxed that. I had 33x12.50r20s on stock 2015 denalli 20s on stock suspension with absolutely no rub at all. I will be running a 34" tire most likely but wanna be able to run 35s with no issue if I want to. I live in the rust capitol and a body lift won't last one winter without rusting through so not a chance I'll out one in my truck. Anyone have any advice on making this thing easier to align? Future plans are a diff drop and longer shocks, and shock adapters for the rear shocks. I haven't knocked the slots out of the uca cam bolts holes but don't think I need to ( unless I'm wrong). This is a z71 if that matters. First pic is the 35s and second is the 33s. The rims I had the 33s on r getting sandblasted and powder coated crinkle black, and once I get rockers done and find some new doors I'm gonna hit the whole truck with olive drab bedliner.

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[Ehall8702]

Well not so obvious on camera but u can def see positive camber with ur eye. I'm gonna try and adjust camber some with a level ( not a precise way to do it but gotta do something to correct it for now). My other though was maybe longer tie rod adjustment sleeves or drop idler and pitman to make sure I don't get oddball steering angles.

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[Ehall8702]

I'm lucky, I only drive about 8 miles a day ( live 2 miles from work) so not doing too much damage to my tires yet ( only about half tread left anyways)

 

[Ehall8702]

I guess I'll figure it out, doesn't seem to be ma y ppl active in this section of the forum.
There is alot of useful info here, so back to reading posts and hopefully find my answer there.

 

[df2x4]

To be fair, some people probably tuned out when you said keys cranked all the way and ball joint flip. You're going to feel every little pebble in the road and beat your front end parts to death if you run it that way for any length of time. 2" higher than stock is the highest it's generally recommended to crank up on the factory setup, and even that rides pretty rough.

Sorry I'm no actual help, just wanted to speculate on why you haven't received any replies. I think most people who want as much lift as you do end up going with a pre-fab kit from someone like Rough Country.

 

[Ehall8702]

Actually doesn't ride bad at all, I don't intend on keeping keys fully up, just was attempting to see what angles were going to end up like and what was possible . I'm by far not an idiot, I'm a state certified mechanic and this is what I do for a living so I know what's right and wrong. Im more looking for info on what will make this thing able to be aligned. Balljoint flip gave waaaaay too much positive camber, so I'll flip em back and bring keys down some. Still didn't have issues with 35s before I cranked the keys up, but u know got kinda greedy and wanted to see how much I could lift for cheap. Have a diff drop on the way already and will end up buying lift parts one at a time to get an adequate lift. I only drive this truck to and from work so not worried about it being perfect all at once. I'm more of a hands on kinda person that likes to try things and physically see why it doesn't work and find an adequate solution to the issue. I've been fabricating my whole life so instead if buying parts I'll probably Fab my own, not cause I'm cheap, more because I actually like the trial and error! I'm by far not , cheap trust me lol I've got almost 4k just into my stereo already and that itch refuses to be scratched so I can see another couple gs in my future there.

 

[mariodave]

I tried the 2 inch blocks and re indexed keys and that was terrible. UCA 'S were topped out, all angles extreme. I went to a superlift 6 inch. In my opinion, you can't get it high enough without a body lift if you are trying crank up the front end with a stock suspension.

 

[Ehall8702]

I tried the 2 inch blocks and re indexed keys and that was terrible. UCA 'S were topped out, all angles extreme. I went to a superlift 6 inch. In my opinion, you can't get it high enough without a body lift if you are trying crank up the front end with a stock suspension.

3" blocks, keys almost topped out, diff drop, and trimmed sag stops, and longer shocks and have no issues, knocked out the cam bolt slots and alignment put it in specs. Clears 35s no problem, they only rub when I get to twisted way up out in the woods. Had to flip upper BJ back to top of uca cause couldn't put it on spec with em on bottom. Have a 3" body lift I'm debating on putting on now.

 

[Blanco_obs]

Never heard of a ball joint flip. There are a couple of after marker uca that state for a 3-4” lift. ?

 

[mariodave]

Here's my solution.

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