Cam retard

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james28909

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nevermind, it just dawned on me, the rotor in the distributor turns clockwise, so to retard it, i need to turn the distributor shaft itself counter clockwise, then i can set proper cam retard. if i was in the negative (to retarded), i could turn the distributor shaft clockwise and then set cam retard with scan tool.
 
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Supercharged111

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it is a newer distributor. ive had it out and check proper gear orientation (its not on 180 degrees out) and the gears all look great.

i have the distibutor turned all the way clockwise as it will go, it is hitting the upper intake manifold. if i take the distributor out and rotate the distributor shaft counter clockwise one tooth and move the distributor housing the same amount, then that will put me in the negative cam retard correct? then i can adjust the distributor with the bolt slightly loosened and set it to spec?

i had it within 2 degrees, but i noticed a leak from the heater hose fitting on the intake, well i tried to fix it but ended up snapping that fitting off flush with the block. i removed the intake to install a spare one i had, which means i had to remove the distributor as well. i got the new intake and everything installed but i think i am off one tooth, but i am just not sure which direction to turn the distributor shaft itself.

without worrying about anything else i said, just ponder this and give me your feedback.

if i rotate the distributor shaft counter clockwise, will that retard the cam retard. if you turn it clockwise, it will advance the cam retard, correct.

i think that since it is crammed up against the upper intake manifold, and still reads +6... if i move it (the distributor shaft itself) counter clockwise one tooth then that will retard it, and the distributor wont be up against the upper intake manifold anymore, thus giving me room to move distributor housing and set to spec. as it stands right now i cannot move it clockwise anymore, so that means the distributor shaft needs to turn counter clockwise one tooth, then i can adjust the housing to set the factory spec.

does that sound right?

ps i have a bt obd2 scanner and car gauge pros and use the cmp retard pid

Years ago the best I could get was 29 degrees off. If I went one tooth in either direction, the closest I could get was worse than that. That's why I said what I said. If in the end you find this is the best you can do, I would flip that gear 180 and see what happens.
 

james28909

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i was able to get it, though i do not know if my technique worked because i had to reset the distributor a few times because somehow, i would get it to the only timing mark on the harmonic balancer and then i would line up the distributor for rough timing, but i had to stab it and then turn the motor over with a ratchet to get it to drop on the oil pump shaft. then i would install the rotor and cap and jump in and try to start it and it would either lock up or backfire. glad i didnt bust a tooth off my flywheel. but i eventually got it and it is now set at -0.2 cam retard.
 

DIMESFORLIFE

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I wasn't aware of this
There are 2 ways to clock that gear on the shaft: right and wrong.
I have a 96 with a consistent miss at speeds I changed plugs wires cap rotor fuel filter new tps egr valve blah blah . I think the original injectors or dizzy it's self are bad .. what do you guys think this is or am I way off track . $300 for injectors and 260k miles .. let me know much appreciated
 

Supercharged111

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I wasn't aware of this

I have a 96 with a consistent miss at speeds I changed plugs wires cap rotor fuel filter new tps egr valve blah blah . I think the original injectors or dizzy it's self are bad .. what do you guys think this is or am I way off track . $300 for injectors and 260k miles .. let me know much appreciated

If you have 260k on the original spider you're not off your rocker to want to shotgun it.
 

Erik the Awful

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We're not fans of swap-tronics on this board, but nobody argues against ditching the stock poppets for the MPFI conversion. Even if it's not the source of your problem, you'll notice a difference.
 

someotherguy

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If you have 260k on the original spider you're not off your rocker to want to shotgun it.
It's one of those designs that once you pull the crusty, brittle old junk out of the intake and look at it - you'll wonder how it ever worked at all for so long.

Richard
 

james28909

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I wasn't aware of this

I have a 96 with a consistent miss at speeds I changed plugs wires cap rotor fuel filter new tps egr valve blah blah . I think the original injectors or dizzy it's self are bad .. what do you guys think this is or am I way off track . $300 for injectors and 260k miles .. let me know much appreciated
lower intake gaskets might need to be changed. if they are still stock at that mileage then i about bet you thats where your problem is. my stock intake gaskets were toast when i took everything apart to fix a bent valve, and i had a consistent skip and the engine would completely bog under hard acceleration or hauling a trailer.

you could also have a cracked head or blown head gasket. you can check for cracked heads or blown head gaskets by opening the radiator and seeing if you notice any bubbling back (compression escaping the cylinder), or check for water in yoru oil. if you have soem carbon in your coolant system that can also be a clue that exhaust gases are making their way into the cooling system through a crack in the combustion chamber. if your truck has ever ran hot, go ahead and expect atleast one of those vortec heads to be cracked, because the way they cast them was kind of stupid, there is no meat, so to speak, behind the combustion chamber. its hollow and is apart of the cooling system. you can repair a cracked head like this by a technique called pinning, and then put new valve seats in them. but you will spend approx the same fixing those as if you would buying a nice new set.

but tearing off the intake really isnt that hard. take it off, clean everything down and get yoruself a nice set of those felpro metal core/silicone lined intake gaskets.

i would also suggest that, atleast to me, its easier to remove the whole intake (
upper and lower) in one go than to try and remove the upper intake by itself. then once its out you can take it and have it cleaned by a machine shop, and then put new gaskets and swap the fuel injection assembly.

edit: also, do not ignore the skip, you will regret it. i did and ended up getting pissed because of how ****** it was running and just held it to the floor, which bent a valve. luckly it did not knock a whole in a piston or bent a wrist pin, or damage the connecting rod or bearings on the crank. luckly a valve job did it for me.

so if i were you, i would suggest with your milage to remove intake and heads and have a valve job down on the heads because carbon build up keeps exhaust valves from closing, which will cause a miss... and replace head gaskets and intake gaskets. there is a felpro set that is heavy duty for these motors which works quite well. just installed them on mine. but like i said, do not ignore the miss. it will get worse and worse. and then youll be crying. you will be better off having a valve job done because if you just do the gaskets on the intake and have the same problem, then you have to take the intake BACK off AGAIN which is a pita. so i suggest to just do it all in one go... oh and put a new timing gears and chain and timing cover. also, watch out for the pesky oil sending unit when you are reassembling lol
 
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Lou Merrell

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Yeah, I got it on Android phone . I used this info to setup te pid.

Torque Pro app - $5 (link)
and the custom PID below.

Torque - go to Settings:
Manage extra PIDs/Sensors
Add custom PID
  • OBD2 Mode and PID: 221301
  • Long Name: Cam Position Retard Offset
  • Short name: CMPRET
  • Minimum value: -100
  • Maximum value: 100
  • Scale factor: x1
  • Unit type: degrees
  • Equation: ((Signed(A)*256)+B)*0.024
  • OBD header to use: 6C10F1
  • Diagnostic start command: <blank>
  • Diagnostic stop command: <blank>
  • Overrides PID: Does not override any PID
If you don't mind me asking, what obd scan tool are you using?
 
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SUBURBAN5

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sorry for digging this thread up lol, atleast it isnt from 2007 right? xD

anyways, you said you were +6 ( 5.8 to be exact) out right?
did you turn the distributor shaft/rotor counter clockwise to retard it more?

i am at +6 and i have turned the distributor clockwise as far as it will go, so i need to go to the next tooth. i am +6 out so i guess i also need to rotate the distributor shaft counter clockwise 1 tooth?
I'm having this issue. What exactly did you end up doing?
 
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