Cam retard

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98k2500

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I have a 98 5.7 vortec.

I installed a new distributor today.

Using torque scanner I added a pid for cmp offset. The best I could get it set to was 5.8

From what I've been able to find I should turn the distributer clockwise to compensate for a positive reading.

I turn it clockwise as far as it will go and the best reading I get is the 5.8.

Do I need to pull the distributor back out ?

I read that I need to pull it back out and turn the rotor counterclockwise 1 tooth. Is this correct and how far is " 1 tooth"?
 

Frank Enstein

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Yes that is correct. As you turn the housing the direction of rotation you are retarding it. Turning the distributor shaft counter clockwise will do more of the same.
One tooth refers to the number of teeth on the distributor gear. I don't know the exact amount but there are 12 or 14 teeth so you would rotate 1/12 or 1/14 (or one of however many teeth are on the distributor) of a rotation.

Pro tip: When you turn the distributor back one tooth turn the oil pump driveshaft the same amount. If you don't you may run your box of foul language empty before the distributor seats on the manifold.:D
 

Supercharged111

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Yes that is correct. As you turn the housing the direction of rotation you are retarding it. Turning the distributor shaft counter clockwise will do more of the same.
One tooth refers to the number of teeth on the distributor gear. I don't know the exact amount but there are 12 or 14 teeth so you would rotate 1/12 or 1/14 (or one of however many teeth are on the distributor) of a rotation.

Pro tip: When you turn the distributor back one tooth turn the oil pump driveshaft the same amount. If you don't you may run your box of foul language empty before the distributor seats on the manifold.:D

You underestimate some of our boxes of foul language good sir.
 

kennythewelder

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Did you rase the RPMs to 1100? Its not set at idle.
 

Frank Enstein

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You underestimate some of our boxes of foul language good sir.
I purchase mine by the pallet. I generally stick with questionable parentage and and loose morals. When they're on sale I pick up a bag of automotive engineer/******** insults for the bolt put in the wrong way so you have to cut the head off and put a new bolt in situations.
 

98k2500

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1000-1200 to be precise, but I do 1100 like Kenny said cuz it's smack in the middle. The value will change from an idle to 1100.

The way I did it was I loosend the hold down bolt. Turned it clock wise and tightened it down. Got in the truck and started it up. Got it up to 1100 rpm and checked the reading. It was at 6.8

I then turned the engine off an repeated the process two more times and the reading went lower each time, but then I couldn't turn it clockwise any further.

I started the engine back up and got it up to 1100 and that was the last reading i took at 5.8
 

Supercharged111

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I purchase mine by the pallet. I generally stick with questionable parentage and and loose morals. When they're on sale I pick up a bag of automotive engineer/******** insults for the bolt put in the wrong way so you have to cut the head off and put a new bolt in situations.

Excellent approach.

The way I did it was I loosend the hold down bolt. Turned it clock wise and tightened it down. Got in the truck and started it up. Got it up to 1100 rpm and checked the reading. It was at 6.8

I then turned the engine off an repeated the process two more times and the reading went lower each time, but then I couldn't turn it clockwise any further.

I started the engine back up and got it up to 1100 and that was the last reading i took at 5.8

As long as the RPM reading comes from the PCM and not the factory tach, this is an acceptable method.
 

delta_p

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Excellent approach.



As long as the RPM reading comes from the PCM and not the factory tach, this is an acceptable method.

How far out can a '98 go before she's throwing codes. I know on my '96, you can run way out from +/- 2 degrees and there's no issue. But must be tighter on '98?
 
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