Calipers......

[alpinecrick]

1996 K1500

What calipers are you guys liking currently? Are the Power Stops anything special?
Raybestos R-Line coated?
Raybestos new uncoated?
Or AC Delco new uncoated?

I'm pretty sure I'm going with the Raybestos slotted rotors.

Raybestos Element 3 pads?

I'm hoping the Raybestos Element 3 aren't different pad material inside vs outside because in the past NAPA Adaptive One with different pad material on the inside vs outside seemed to warp rotors faster.

 

[DonYukon]

I had D/S rotors back when I was still IFS and honestly didn't see to much of a difference at all even with the fade of running it hard.

 

[454cid]

I've got Oreilly Auto calipers on the truck, and I've got Cardone's coated calipers on my Saturn which are a real coating.... looks something like powdercoating. I'm a little wary of trusting Rockauto's "coated" category without other information because companies often "coat" their iron rebuilds with a very temporary coating to prevent rust in shipment/shelf-storage.

I'm happy so far with the coated Cardone's but I haven't actually inspected them since they've gone through the road salt. In the past I've stayed away from Cardone because I had a couple calipers seize up on the truck, but so far no problems with the calipers on the car.

 

[df2x4]

I have no input on calipers... But I'm running the Raybestos Element 3 pads on my Suburban and I love them. EHT369H to be specific. I'm running them with EBC slotted rotors (because I got a crazy good deal on them due to an Amazon pricing confusion) and it's a great combo. I plan on putting the same pads on my red truck with the Raybestos slotted rotors here in a month or two.

If you haven't seen it already, you might want to browse through this thread. There's some really good info that others shared regarding DOT friction codes on all pads and shoes sold in the USA. Basically the higher the letter code, the faster they stop. The Raybestos Element 3s are GG code, which is the most aggressive code available for these trucks that I'm aware of.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/ebc-yellowstuff-brake-pads-worth-it.47903/

 

[alpinecrick]

df,
Yes, the more aggressive the pads and shoes, the shorter the lifespan of the rotors and drums.

I was mostly wondering about calipers. The ones on the truck have been rebuilt a couple times and it's probably best to replace them. Like the idea of the new Raybestos but they aren't coated.

 

[454cid]

df,
Yes, the more aggressive the pads and shoes, the shorter the lifespan of the rotors and drums.

I was mostly wondering about calipers. The ones on the truck have been rebuilt a couple times and it's probably best to replace them. Like the idea of the new Raybestos but they aren't coated.

I have not yet used any of the new calipers. I suspect they're coming from China just like all the new CV shafts, water pumps, and everything else. I'm not sure I want that kind of "quality" in a caliper.

 

[CrustyJunker]

I was mostly wondering about calipers. The ones on the truck have been rebuilt a couple times and it's probably best to replace them. Like the idea of the new Raybestos but they aren't coated.

I'm seeing this on more and more new products. Coatings and/or paint is now treated like an option. Definitely required for us Northern folks.

I know it's easier to just slap something on and be done...But if you're pretty set on the Raybestos, maybe consider grabbing a can of brake caliper paint and go that route. I had surprisingly good luck with the rattle can stuff holding up (with good prep).

I may also have to decide on calipers soon if I can't get my brake bleeders loosened.

 

[454cid]

I'm seeing this on more and more new products. Coatings and/or paint is now treated like an option. Definitely required for us Northern folks.

Coated calipers and rotors is a fairly recent thing. It used to be all bare iron that was basically just oiled for storage.

I know it's easier to just slap something on and be done...But if you're pretty set on the Raybestos, maybe consider grabbing a can of brake caliper paint and go that route. I had surprisingly good luck with the rattle can stuff holding up (with good prep).

I have not yet tried caliper paint.

 

[alpinecrick]

I'm seeing this on more and more new products. Coatings and/or paint is now treated like an option. Definitely required for us Northern folks.

I know it's easier to just slap something on and be done...But if you're pretty set on the Raybestos, maybe consider grabbing a can of brake caliper paint and go that route. I had surprisingly good luck with the rattle can stuff holding up (with good prep).

I may also have to decide on calipers soon if I can't get my brake bleeders loosened.

That was my thought if I decide to go the new instead of reman route.

If the bleeders won't unscrew that's usually a sign from the brake gods new calipers are in order.....

 

[Vikingdude]

I picked up raybestos element3 calipers for my Subaru, and was very impressed. Like a heavy plating, looked like lots of zinc. Held up to several years of salty Manitoba roads without rusting or discoloration.

I plan on buying them again when my Yukon needs calipers. I also got power strop drilled slotted rotors, but didn't notice a difference in performance, and got them to fade pretty hard on a few occasions.