Cab Removal

[fancyTBI]

I am going to be removing the cab from my ‘94 K2500 to repair the floor pans. I know how to remove everything so the cab can lift free.

My question is: what’s a good way to get it up off the frame? I’ll have access to a fork lift (unsure of rating, if it’s not enough I will not use it).

How have you removed a cab?

 

[movietvet]

I have been in shops where cabs were removed but it was always with a 2 post above ground lift. The arms swing in and balance the cab and lift up for engine/frame access after rolling it out or access to the floors of cab, like you are doing.

If the fork lift has long enough arms and you can use straps to reach down to the 4 corners of the cab, that could work.

Otherwise, it means lots of people to help elevate the cab and roll the frame out to allow for the cab to set down on supports.

 

[JDGMC]

I am going to be removing the cab from my ‘94 K2500 to repair the floor pans. I know how to remove everything so the cab can lift free.

My question is: what’s a good way to get it up off the frame? I’ll have access to a fork lift (unsure of rating, if it’s not enough I will not use it).

How have you removed a cab?

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[Sean Buick 76]

Remove the seats and use a chain bolted to the seat belt locations. The only reason it was lifting crooked is because there was a ground wire still connected. Once that was removed it lifted up evenly.

 

[Jeepwalker]

There are a lot of ways as shown above.

How long are the fork lift tines? I've seen guys lift and load bare cabs (no doors) by sticking the tines all the way through from, say, the driver's door through the pass door. Just lift and move. I bought a cab many yrs ago that was hoisted like that. Remove the gaskets..put a board along the top to protect the pinch weld. The cab I got didn't seem damaged. But there's always that chance I guess. You'll need plenty of ceiling height to do that.

Or a guy could lift each side of the cab a little at a time by placing a 2x4 and tines under each side of the rockers. Its easier to do with a fork lift or skid steer b/c most floor jacks don't go that high. If the rockers are rusted apart, that might not work so well.

Some guys work the cab up, then assemble a home-brew cribbing under each side (like Jenga)...then remove the rear wheels (lowers the rear end) and slide the truck out on wheel roller units (or some-such). Then lower the cab onto a trailer or wheel'd cart to work on it.

I've seen guys over the yrs also hoist up with straps using an overhead gantry or solid shop beam.

Having access to a fork lift gives you a few more options. If the tines aren't long enough you could borrow or make some 'slippers'... (fork extenders).

If you wanted to distribute the lifting forces out more, you could probably put a long 4x4 (or two 2x6's sistered together) through the cab (rear lifting point), and hook chains/straps to a fabbed-up bracket connected to some of the mounting holes in the front of the cab near the fenders (front lifting point). Then use 4 chains to spread the load out more evenly. There are some captured nuts near the front corners of the cab which look pretty strong.

Come back when you get it off and show us how you ended up doing it, and the good/bad of the technique you used. So we can be a little smarter. Good luck!

 

[someotherguy]

Careful using straps around the roof as it will tend to flatten the rail where the cab-side door weatherstrip attaches. Learned this swapping Rob's cab out. Not a disaster, just added a little more work to the plate.

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When it came time to do the HD, I used an engine hoist with extendable legs (many don't have this), an engine leveler, and chains to the front body mount bolt holes and the seatbelt retractor holes.

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Obviously with an extended cab you'll have more weight to balance and different choices of mount points.

Absent a 2 post lift, the more stuff you can remove from the cab to lighten it, the better..

Richard

 

[Jeepwalker]

Absent a 2 post lift, the more stuff you can remove from the cab to lighten it, the better..

Good point!

If you go with like 4x4's across the top, perhaps cut a shallow slot for the pinch weld to set in with like an oscillating tool or circular saw. Just like 3/8-1/2" deep ...something like that. So you don't create more work later on. It's probably not necessary though ...if you use wood, the wood usually crunches down where it needs to.

What I don't like about straps connected in the center, is the straps put a lot of 'inward' ford on the cab that way. Probably works ok, but... I try to minimize that kind of thing.

How is your truck's cab mount (the frame-side?). Those usually rot out too. Hopefully your's is good, but around here they all rot out.

 

[Shwa Kid]

Just to add another option, here's what I did, the balance point on the cab was very close to the corner at the front of the door opening. The height of a 4x4 might become problematic when clearing the transmission.

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[Cadillacmak]

How have you removed a cab?

With ratchet straps and eye bolts in the garage ceiling. Don't do it that way, it didn't end well for me or the cab! I thought I could release the straps one at a time and slowly lower the cab, you cant do that, it hit me like a battering ram on its way down! See the dent in the picture, we left it as a reminder to not be stupid.

 

[SNCTMPL]

We did it with jacks, jackstands and car dollies, but that was with no suspension under the frame. I don’t know if that helps you. I would think that properly rigged you could get it off with any forklift.

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