Busted T47 seat belt bolts....

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alpinecrick

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All this blood to remove the seat belt T-50 is scaring me--at some point I want to replace the latch side of my belts because the plastic housing on the latches are cracked and the plastic coating on the braided cables has fallen apart.

I also feel it's necessary to mention real men use brake cleaner to disinfected the wound before applying duct tape to staunch the bleeding...........

Sewlow,
In lieu of those impact tools, will my air impact gun work to get those T-50's out?
This thread motivated me to go out and check my inventory of specialty sockets and I do have a USA made Lysle T-50 impact socket.
 

alpinecrick

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Those folks in professional auto repair may indeed have the rethreading tools. Most everyone else is going to have a tap and die set for cutting, and that's what they're going to use to "fix" threads, and I'd guess most people don't even know there is a difference..... kind of like screwdrivers for Phillips head and screwdrivers for JIS.


Right before Sears outsourced to Chicom, I happened to buy a Craftsman USA rethreading kit--one of the handier and more frequently used tool kits in my tool box..........
 

bhopthewelder

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Grind off or drill out the head of the bolt. Should take you longer to get your tools gathered up than to get the bolt removed. I weld pipe for a living so that stuff is a little easier for me. I'm not trying to be an arrogant ****** bag or anything. Have a nice day sir.
 

sewlow

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Sewlow,
In lieu of those impact tools, will my air impact gun work to get those T-50's out?
This thread motivated me to go out and check my inventory of specialty sockets and I do have a USA made Lysle T-50 impact socket.

Sure. I've gone at 'em with a 1/2" impact before. Even then, they can still be stubborn.
Exploding the torx bit &/or rounding out the bolt head is a lot easier with an impact, though.
Don't hit it hard all at once to avoid that. Ease into it at first & then work up to full trigger.
I can't recommend using a good penetrating fluid of some type enough.
Especially with 4x4's & if a vehicle has ever been undercoated.
Give the bolt a shot every morning & afternoon. Top & bottom side of the bolt.
 

evilunclegrimace

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Torx[edit]
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Torx driver
The hexalobular socket screw drive, often referred to by the original proprietary brand name Torx ( /ˈtɔːrks/) or by the alternative generic name star drive, uses a star-shaped recess in the fastener with six rounded points. It was designed to permit increased torque transfer from the driver to the bit compared to other drive systems. The drive was developed in 1967[48] by Camcar Textron.[49] Torx is very popular in the automotive and electronics industries because of resistance to cam out, and extended bit life, as well as reduced operator fatigue by minimizing the need to bear down on the drive tool to prevent cam out. A tamper-resistant Security Torx head has a small pin inside the recess. Owing to its six-fold symmetry, a Torx driver can also be used as an improvised substitute for a hex driver, although careful sizing is critical to prevent stripping the socket. This is a standard Torx drive profile and this is the reason you guys are stripping out the heads of your seat belt bolts
 

evilunclegrimace

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Polydrive[edit]
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The polydrive screw drive, also known as RIBE,[64] is spline-shaped with rounded ends in the fastener head. The tool has six flat teeth at equal spacing; the sizes are determined by the diameter of the star points. Its primary advantage over older screw drives is that it resists cam out. It is used primarily in the automotive industry in high-torque applications, such as brakes and driveshafts.
Torx Plus[edit]
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Torx Plus is an improved version of Torx that extends tool life even further and permits greater torque transfer compared to Torx. An External Torx version exists, where the screw head has the shape of a Torx screwdriver bit, and a Torx socket is used to drive it. See § External Torx.

These two are type of profiles that are used on seat belt bolts on GM trucks.
 

GoToGuy

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Torches and welding in the interior, hmm, nope not me. To the too tight allen head brake caliper retaining bolt. It not necessary to be Godzilla tight. It is where it lives, constant hot cold cycles that cause it to be a ton of grief to remove, and it doesn't help if you live in rustbelt, salt-roads, corrosion country. The guy with chevy luv head bolt " 12 point spline drive" still have one.
 

thinger2

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Dont use any kind on an "easy out" or whatever miracle cure they advertise.
That just ends with a piece of hard tool steel snapped off in the hole.
And any attempt to drill that out ends up walking off center and snaps .
Now you are at least tripple screwed.
Just a general rule of thumb.
If you encounter problems of any type of material in any form.
Stop.
Basically, if its a ***** and you are all pissed off?
You are doing it wrong.
Treat a bolt like brain surgery.
Calm cool amd centered.
 
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